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Real estate skid signs - PT lumber or not?

gnubler

Active Member
In looking at images online the majority of them look like regular lumber, and a lot are painted. I made a few last year that were 100% pretreated wood, not painted, that have held up well. I'm about to build a few more that need to last at least a year. Should I stick with all PT lumber whether it's painted or not? If the customer decides they want them painted, is it okay to use regular lumber for the upper frame and PT lumber for the base/feet? Here's an example of what I'll be making:

27_20140910160406_3770942_large.jpg
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
Due to EPA the chemicals on PT is not like it use to be years ago but still will hold up better than lumber not treated. The waterbase primer soaks in very good and makes the signage look more professional. Just lay 4x4s and 2x4s on some saw horses and take a 2" or4" brush and paint them. put the brush in a can filled with water to use for next time.
Put a dado slot (table saw dado or router with correct bit) on the 4x4s if you want double sided to save on material.
Use deck screws or galvanized nails so no rust stains when they are outside for awhile.
 

gnubler

Active Member
Thanks Johnny Best, that's the plan now. I tried to upsell painting the frames and they went for it.

Are there different types of PT lumber depending on which part of the country? The stock at my local HD is much darker. Here's a shot of one of mine that's been outside for about a year.

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Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
The HD PT lumber is crap. We buy our lumber from a dock supply company and it is better but still treated with the same cheap chemical. It used to be creosote treaded like telephone poles and railroad ties, it'd last a lifetime. Pretty much every place that did that treatment in the past is now a superfund site. It's some coal tar derivative which is something that we still use in industrial painting, it is nasty but you can not beat the weathering durability. Eventually it will be banned all together like chromate.
As far as signs, paint it. Sorry Tex, luv ya, but raw wood looks cheap. And pull the tags off..... and the backing off the ACM for Christ's sake. I dunno about you Texans.
My summer job as a kid was to paint sign posts (and clean screens, empty garbage, scrape paint off the floor) used a little 4" roller and god knows what kind of paint. They were all painted, including real estate signs. Then we would touch up any marks that we made with the tamping bar after we put them in. Remember, your reputation is based on your work, not how much money you make. Don't skip steps because someone is cheap, either up the price, eat it or decline the job.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Thanks Johnny Best, that's the plan now. I tried to upsell painting the frames and they went for it.

Are there different types of PT lumber depending on which part of the country? The stock at my local HD is much darker. Here's a shot of one of mine that's been outside for about a year.

View attachment 164943
I would bet its a different species of lumber since it is generally regional. Down here its white pine and SYP. SYP is denser and stronger.
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
That wood is a lot darker than here. Notareal is a sign snob with his painting posts. Yes, I like to paint them, but that was a construction site in the desert... their guys probably ran over them with a bulldozer before I made it back home.
 

Sando

18 Years and Counting...
I use Fir Posts. They're decently affordable in my neck of the woods and they don't warp like pressure treated. Skids, or in the ground. I paint them and a bit extra paint on the ends as it soaks up. Fir has treated me well for at least 15 years, probably more like 18.
 

chester215

Just call me Chester.
I would use PT lumber.
Commercial signs can be up for years and you may want to reuse it since a lot of work goes into making one.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
I like to paint them, but most people don't like to wait for the paint to dry.

* PT cannot be painted until it goes through several seasons. However, if ya can't wait, use 2 coats of latex on PT, not oil based
* Oil based on regular fir
* Oil based on cedar posts
* PT and slip a sleeve over it

If ya ever saw how PT lumber is created, you'd know why its not a good choice in the long run. You can get double kiln dried PT which costs more but most likely won't bend and twist.
 

Stacey K

I like making signs
There's a post here somewhere when I made my first sign and people posts pics of examples.

Ya - I thought you weren't supposed to paint PT the first season? At least up here "my Dad" always tells me I have to wait to stain my fence or whatever else I make at home out of PT. Wasn't sure if that was old school talk or not LOL

Like this but after I was done he said he would have done something different. I don't remember what.

126904951_3516708268376410_372984863973985129_n.jpg
 

gnubler

Active Member
I like to paint them, but most people don't like to wait for the paint to dry.

* PT cannot be painted until it goes through several seasons. However, if ya can't wait, use 2 coats of latex on PT, not oil based
The last batch of pretreated wood I got was damp, that's all they had at HD. I let it air out in my shop for a couple days before painting and it needed at least 3 coats. Hoping what they have in stock now is dry.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Well, ya don't wait til the last minute to buy your posts. Generally have 10 or 12 sitting around. Like mentioned earlier, the box hardware stores wood is crap. Go to a lumber mill. It costs more, but it usually is a better grade and kept dry
 

gnubler

Active Member
Use deck screws or galvanized nails so no rust stains when they are outside for awhile.
I spoke with a builder friend about this and he said don't use galvanized fasteners with PT, they react with the chemicals and rot. I think I used zinc coated decking screws on the last batch I built so they should hold up, correct? Should I be using the coated decking screws instead?

Lumber mills around here don't do small wholesale orders like I'm needing so I'm stuck with either the orange box store or a local building supply place. Everyone complains about the local place because they load the lumber for you and you can't pick through it.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Whatever you do, remove that back film Tex left on. He'll be lucky if the contractors are smart enough to not follow those arrows if they see them.
Dado is good, but so is selling two sheets of acm and mounting them to the face of the 4x4's. Takes the windload off the screws and transfers it to the posts, so you don't need fender washers.
 
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