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removing molding and emblems from a vehicle, best way?

VicoDrive

New Member
Looking to put some decals onto a vehicle which will require removing a couple of the F250 Ford logos and the long rubber bump guards along the bottom of the doors. Never done this before, do you really just pry it off with something like a plastic window scraper or is there something you should spray behind it to get it to loosen? Also, after its removed, is there left over adhesive that should also be removed? And if so, whats the best way to get rid of it?
 

threeputt

New Member
One way to do it is to get some 120 pound fishing line. Cut a short length 24 to 30 inches and tie each end to some sort of "handle". (can be anything, chunk of wood, etc)

Then begin "sawing" back and forth behind the emblem.

The remaining glue can be removed with Rapid Remover or similar.
 

VicoDrive

New Member
One way to do it is to get some 120 pound fishing line. Cut a short length 24 to 30 inches and tie each end to some sort of "handle". (can be anything, chunk of wood, etc)

Then begin "sawing" back and forth behind the emblem.

The remaining glue can be removed with Rapid Remover or similar.

so using it like dental floss, hmmm... Will go pick some up in case the other option doesnt work as well
 

JBusch260

New Member
I've always had luck with a heatgun, and a chisel set that is meant for vehicular use (high impact plastic). Go slow and be patient.
 

Red Ball

Seasoned Citizen
One way to do it is to get some 120 pound fishing line. Cut a short length 24 to 30 inches and tie each end to some sort of "handle". (can be anything, chunk of wood, etc)

Then begin "sawing" back and forth behind the emblem.

The remaining glue can be removed with Rapid Remover or similar.

+1
 

Mosh

New Member
Heat and fishing line combo is what I do no emlems, the molding heat and once I get it started pull. The glue the put them on with is VHB on steriods....
 

gspicer

New Member
I use a heat gun, braided Spiderwire and a pair of leather gloves. Braided Spiderwire has more bite than regular mono-filament line and it won't stretch or break, it's like super thin piano wire that won't scratch/gouge auto paint. Just wrap the line around each gloved hand and goto town on the emblems and molding. It also helps to have a cheap auto molding removal kit from harbor freight for prying up emblems when they have nubs underneath that catch on your line.

-Gregor
 

Craig Sjoquist

New Member
Just drive down a bumpy road the whole car/truck falls apart, labels 1st...think I'm joking look at all of the ones missing lol lol lol
 

visual800

Active Member
We use a 5 in 1 paint tool and then scrape rest of adhesive with razor scraper no issues yet. Keep in mind the f250 is going to have a hole behind it
 

jfiscus

Rap Master
The pink "Lil' Chizler" is my favorite tool for removing VHB adhered emblems, although I admit that I have never tried the fishing line trick...
Once the plastic is off, get a corner of the remaining VHB/adhesive lifted up and pull it along the surface "away" from the rest of the adhesive and it will all come right off in one piece with no residue. Once you figure that trick out you'll hate that you wasted all that time fighting the adhesive. ;)
 

johnnysigns

New Member
You fishing line masochists must love cleaning up the glue.

With a cheap harbor freight tools plastic molding kit I'd try the emblems cold, then scalding hot from a heat gun and lastly try fishing line if nothing budged. New vehicles will usually shed at least a part of the letters clean off which means no glue remover and no glue remover to degrease which I think is most important if you're wrapping that area. That stuff FUBARs wrap film adhesives if you miss some.
 
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