Replacing dampers on JV3

[ColesCreations]

Hi.

We are ready to replace the dampers on our JV3 160 SP.

We are having some issues with ink starvation, prints fine a few passes, then lighter bands. We have been having issues since it was new a year ago, but now the banding is worse, figured first step would be the dampers.

We have purchased all the dampers (big ones, same as this machine came with originally).

I looked in the Maintenance manual, it explains how to replace heads, but not how to install the damper!

It may be that it is such an elementary task that even idiots know how, but I want to be sure before attempting. I know how install the damper, but need tips on the priming procedure.

Is any air allowed in the damper?

Any tips on how to connect the syringe to get the job done without making a mess appreciated...

Thanks!

 

[GARY CULY]

ill try to answer best i can here .ive done it a few times ...course take off the front plastic cover ...do each one at at time. the damper will pop STRAIGHT UPout of its socket it sets in [there should be a real small o-ring on the bottom ,if its not on the damper its down in the hole.so make sure theres only 1 when you pop it back in ] the nut holding on the line should be FINGER TIGHT.so itll unscrew easily. [try to screw on new damper so when is tight the "timing" or the way it sets when tight doesnt kink or bind up the line when installed] now comes the priming with a syrenge [sp]. i bought a few different ones at the veternary supply store ,a couple at a farm store,the big ones they give shots to cows and big animals with ..there hole in the end is pretty big where the needle screws on ...one will fit over the little hole in the damper . just set it on there and suck some ink down in the damper till it stats up in the syrenge[get a few clean rags/paper towels all layed down in there best you can.wear some surgical gloves ,your gonna make a mess of some level.] now set the damper back STRAIGHT BACK DOWN ON THE SOCKET youll tell when it is seated. repeat till all are done ..clean up ..then you go to the "fill ink" control ..i was a bit scared also first time,but it is a basic proceedure any one can do with patience....just take your time,be careful of ink mess .helps having an assistant to be ready with a paper towel for swabbing and just basiccally there for another 2 hands when you need them ....itll be fine ,carry on. there will be more replys probly so read them too.take all tips that are posted,most these men wont respond if its not fact on this . they know its a very important prceedure and the value of the equipment bieng worked on .

 

[particleman]

Few things Gary didn't mention...

1. Be sure to remove the damper retaining plate, it is directly over the dampers, you'll need a semi long philips screw driver to get the screws loose (no need to take them out) the hole is notched so it will slide up. Make sure you have firm pressure and a good screw driver as you don't want to strip these screws (they will strip).

2. I usually remove the head height handle also. The black piece of plastic that allows you to adjust the head height. Two screws on each side of it, be sure not to strip! You will have to manuever this out between the lines carefully, avoid contacting the slider board (circuit board above it). When putting it back in make sure you put the notch back where it was, you should be able to apply downward pressure on the handle and it not move freely.

3. It is helpful for me to use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the lip of the damper to remove them. pull straight up and remove them.

4. Notice when you unscrew the damper from the line, the ink will begin to run back down the line. Be ready to install the other one to the line it will be alittle less you have to suck back into the lines.

5. TAke note before you remove them, there is a plastic cover protecting the head from ink. There is also notches on this cover that guides the damper into a specific position. Make sure you have it angled correctly before pressing down or it will not go in all the way.

6. A good rule avoid the big bang approach, do 1 or 2 dampers at a time so you can use the other heads for reference.

 

[eforer]

If you choose to syringe prime your dampers vs just a bunch of ink fill ups, use very gentle pressure, you can collapse and damage the dampers if you crank on them too hard with a syringe.

 

[GTSTech_1]

If you can't find a syringe, you can also use a Brake-Bleed pump (available at any auto store). If using the brake pump, do not...I repeat DO NOT go over 15 psi, you'll damage the membrane and or the screen that is inside the damper.

My $.02

 

[ColesCreations]

Thanks for replies, I'll give it a go.

So- I understand that it is not critical if a bit of air is left in the damper, as ink fillup will take care of that.

Is the fillup sequence really necessary if we prime with a syringe or pump? We are running a series of smaller decals, and no big deal if a few of them gets messed up.

And- to GTS-Tech: 15 psi suction?? I hope you meant 1.5 psi, but I get it, a pump may be a good idea, as it's easier to control suction with a pump than with a syringe that sticks, and then suddenly you have close to 15 psi suction...

Thanks!

 

[eforer]

if you syringe prime, a strong clean is usually enough to get everything running normally.

 

[ColesCreations]

Strong clean it is then