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Replacing head vp-540

klingsdesigns

New Member
So its time to change out my black print head. This is a first time for me so any tips or suggestions I have open ears. I ordered the head and dampers, just replaced the cap top. Have the service manual.

I was told you don't have to pump the heads to get the ink out is that true? Just pull the damper off and catch any ink that comes out and then start working on the head?

Also was told you don't have to change the head rank?

Please feel free to give any advice.
 

player

New Member
So its time to change out my black print head. This is a first time for me so any tips or suggestions I have open ears. I ordered the head and dampers, just replaced the cap top. Have the service manual.

I was told you don't have to pump the heads to get the ink out is that true? Just pull the damper off and catch any ink that comes out and then start working on the head?

Also was told you don't have to change the head rank?

Please feel free to give any advice.
Do you have the official Roland Service Manual for the VP? That would be a great start. As far as the rank numbers. It is as easy as keying them into the keypad so why wouldn't you change them to the proper numbers for that head?
 

Terry01

New Member
Head rank is only an identification...Allows you to monitor life of that head.. Your printer was never told what heads it would ever receive, so the number means nothing to it.
 

player

New Member
Head rank is only an identification...Allows you to monitor life of that head.. Your printer was never told what heads it would ever receive, so the number means nothing to it.
I was told the heads get calibrated at the factory, and the #'s are the calibration...
 

strypguy

New Member
I've changed a few heads myself. I never used the pump up etc. I just carefully removed the head. After installation I capped the head and used a syringe to pull ink into the head. Then do all the adjustments which take time but are very necessary to get it to print right. I never entered a rank number on the last install and it works fine as others have stated. John
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
1. Make sure you turn the machine off, unplug it, hit the power buttons a couple times and then wait 15 minutes before working on the machine. This is a little overboard but it ensures you won't do any electrical damage when taking the head out.

2. After taking the head out, clean the area where it was thoroughly. Ink builds up and prevents the head from moving during alignments.

3. When taking the dampers off, lift straight up so as not to break the manifold. When putting the new one on, wet the manifold with cleaning solution so the damper slides on nice and smooth.

4. Check your head cables before installing them on the new head. If they are damaged or dirty, you should replace them.

5. You should take the alignment spring out before the head. This way it doesn't pop out and disappear. Also be very careful taking it out. The tend to go flying and they are hard to find afterwards.

6. Do the alignments in the order the appear in the alignment menu. It should be, Bias, Vertical, Horizontal, Bi-Directional Default and then User Menu bi-directional in that order.

7. The manual will tell you to push and hold the left, down and right arrows to enter service mode but that is not the case anymore. Instead do this: With the back power switch on and the front power switch off, push these buttons in order > down, right, left, up, right, down, left and then press and hold left, down and right at the same time while power on the front switch. You have about 5 seconds to do all that so it may take a couple tries.

I don't use the head rank usually. I never flush the machine before the install. Just have some paper towel ready for the ink that will come out when you take the dampers off. I never flush the head before install either as it causes more problems than it prevents.
 

klingsdesigns

New Member
1. Make sure you turn the machine off, unplug it, hit the power buttons a couple times and then wait 15 minutes before working on the machine. This is a little overboard but it ensures you won't do any electrical damage when taking the head out.

2. After taking the head out, clean the area where it was thoroughly. Ink builds up and prevents the head from moving during alignments.

3. When taking the dampers off, lift straight up so as not to break the manifold. When putting the new one on, wet the manifold with cleaning solution so the damper slides on nice and smooth.

4. Check your head cables before installing them on the new head. If they are damaged or dirty, you should replace them.

5. You should take the alignment spring out before the head. This way it doesn't pop out and disappear. Also be very careful taking it out. The tend to go flying and they are hard to find afterwards.

6. Do the alignments in the order the appear in the alignment menu. It should be, Bias, Vertical, Horizontal, Bi-Directional Default and then User Menu bi-directional in that order.

7. The manual will tell you to push and hold the left, down and right arrows to enter service mode but that is not the case anymore. Instead do this: With the back power switch on and the front power switch off, push these buttons in order > down, right, left, up, right, down, left and then press and hold left, down and right at the same time while power on the front switch. You have about 5 seconds to do all that so it may take a couple tries.

I don't use the head rank usually. I never flush the machine before the install. Just have some paper towel ready for the ink that will come out when you take the dampers off. I never flush the head before install either as it causes more problems than it prevents.
After you put head in do you recommend pulling ink from the cap top? Then do a test print to make sure its firing good, then do all the alignments? I do have a grounding wrist thing i can wear when i remove the head to help with the static shock.
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
After you put head in do you recommend pulling ink from the cap top? Then do a test print to make sure its firing good, then do all the alignments? I do have a grounding wrist thing i can wear when i remove the head to help with the static shock.

If I replace only one head I usually fill it by pulling from the cap. If I replace all of the heads I normally run the ink fill up through the menu. You don't have to worry so much about static as you do the capacitors that drain slowly on the main board and power supply. I would still use it if you have it. It won't hurt.
 

klingsdesigns

New Member
Well I swapped it out last night. Took a little longer than I thought. The changing the head part was quick, the head alignment and the rest of the stuff you have to do took a long time. What a difference in test prints it makes. Here are pictures showing the difference. Cant wait to print on Monday and see how the prints turn out.
 

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