Retrofit Polycarbonate faced sign to flex face

[rydods]

Is there a possible and nice looking way of retrofitting this sign with a flex face?

It's double sided. Previous installers used flat polycarbonate and put a couple of screws in the top to hold it in and keep it from "bowing". I really don't want to use flat polycarbonate. Sliding larger panels into the frame is a nightmare and I fear there's a possibility that they may blow out with high wind.

I could go with pan formed but I know it will be costly. Just wanted to see if flex face was an option? Thanks in advance.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

By the looks of the retainer, it seems it was made for pan face. How big is it?

 

[rydods]

By the looks of the retainer, it seems it was made for pan face. How big is it?

It was made for a pan face. I recall replacing it once about 15 years ago or so and the last company that put this one up took out the pan face and replaced it with this flat one. The size is 6 ft tall x 12 ft wide.

 

[Gino]

Then, explain to the customer what is supposed to go back in, not what is the cheapest or easiest.

 

[rydods]

Then, explain to the customer what is supposed to go back in, not what is the cheapest or easiest.

My customer didn't ask for the cheapest or easiest option I only wanted to know if flex face was an option for my own general understanding and knowledge. It's nice to know what's possible, ideal and what's not.

 

[Gino]

Flex-face is totally an option, but since we don't do it in-house, I'd use the pan-face. Retro-fitting a 6' x 12' on 2 sides will not be fun. If you know what you're doing, which it doesn't seem like you do, I would take the more natural approach.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Sometimes a flexface can be directly drilled into the inside edges behind the retainer using A TON of fasteners. I did a 6x12 and it turned out great. Must of used 100+ fasteners so that face ain't going nowhere. Not sure how yours looks behind that retainer. They make kits but by the time you do that, it would be cheaper to get a pan. That retainer is way too small for a flat polycarb. If the client can't afford doing it the correct way, then they can't afford redoing their sign.

 

[Gino]

How do you service a sign with 100 fasteners in one side ?? I can see a few strategically placed but 100's ??

 

[signage]

yes they can be done! You need to look at the sign cabinet extrusion manufacturers and decide it the cabinet will accept them.

 

[rydods]

How do you service a sign with 100 fasteners in one side ?? I can see a few strategically placed but 100's ??

It hinges at the top so I think if added to the inside of the frame like Texas mentioned it would be fine to service but I'm not sure 100's would be necessary. It might work but I think the pan formed option, like you recommended, is going to be way I'll approach it.

 

[rydods]

yes they can be done! You need to look at the sign cabinet extrusion manufacturers and decide it the cabinet will accept them.

I'll look into this a bit more even if for future options. I definitely don't want riddle the frame with self tappers and holes. Thanks!

 

[Scotchbrite]

We've used a retrofit extrusion from ABC Sign Products.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

100 was probably overkill, but it was so easy to put those self tappers in that I went a little overboard. To service it, just have to undo some of it.. it was ground level.

 

[Scotchbrite]

You could always add access covers for service. Hopefully done well, not hacked up holes like some I've seen.

 

[signbrad]

How do you service a sign with 100 fasteners in one side ?? I can see a few strategically placed but 100's ??

Exactly.

Going back with a pan face is the best route to take. Costly? Make your customer pay for it.
Seriously, trying to cheap out on a large face is unwise and may be unsafe. Let someone else make that mistake.
Also, at that size there should be a hanging bar, even on a pan, in my opinion.

I have gone the route of making a homemade aluminum square tube frame and screwed the flex face to it, then fabricated new wider retainers to hold the frame. Done this several times. But the result was a sloppy face that had to be serviced by dropping the entire thing to the ground. It was not worth it.


If a flex face is done right, it is not cheaper but costs more—however, they last forever and never blow out. Using a hinged retro fit kit will avoid problems with trying to fasten a flexible face with screws alone. Your sign will be serviceable safely.

One problem with replacing the pan face with a flex face that does not use the retro kit: the cabinet made for the rigid plastic may not be built for the stress of stretched fabric. The long sides will try to bow in toward the middle. A retro fit kit eliminates this problem—the kit's frame (likely stronger than the cabinet) will carry the tension and keep its shape. And the hinge makes for safe servicing.

Cold in Kansas City,

Brad

 

[rydods]

Exactly.

Going back with a pan face is the best route to take. Costly? Make your customer pay for it.
Seriously, trying to cheap out on a large face is unwise and may be unsafe. Let someone else make that mistake.
Also, at that size there should be a hanging bar, even on a pan, in my opinion.

I have gone the route of making a homemade aluminum square tube frame and screwed the flex face to it, then fabricated new wider retainers to hold the frame. Done this several times. But the result was a sloppy face that had to be serviced by dropping the entire thing to the ground. It was not worth it.


If a flex face is done right, it is not cheaper but costs more—however, they last forever and never blow out. Using a hinged retro fit kit will avoid problems with trying to fasten a flexible face with screws alone. Your sign will be serviceable safely.

One problem with replacing the pan face with a flex face that does not use the retro kit: the cabinet made for the rigid plastic may not be built for the stress of stretched fabric. The long sides will try to bow in toward the middle. A retro fit kit eliminates this problem—the kit's frame (likely stronger than the cabinet) will carry the tension and keep its shape. And the hinge makes for safe servicing.

Cold in Kansas City,

Brad

Thank you!

 

[Medina Signs]

I agree with all the comments - not mentioned is the point that a pan formed face is used not only for strength, but for sufficient spacing with the light source. Make sure your cabinet is deep enough to prevent spotting.

 

[Billct2]

I think by the time you go through all the research, work, materials and time involved in the retrofit it will be about the same as new pan faces.

 

[Scotchbrite]

I've always kinda preferred embossed pan faces. As said, they are almost always cheaper than a retro flexframe.

 

[rydods]

Thanks everyone! I quoted it Pan Formed so we'll see what becomes of it. Cabinet is 12" deep so the additional space the faces give will help. I plan to replace the fluorescents with Generation 2 LED bulbs from sign lights LED. I've used these on numerous occasions and absolutely love them but they are spotty in anything less than 12" deep cabinets.