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Roland SP 300V Ink Cross Contamination

xxxmain

New Member
Hi everyone, I'm having some ink cross contamination problems with my trusty Roland SP 300V, and I've done a bunch of reading on this forum and attempted many fixes with little progress.

The problem only seems to be some Black getting into the Cyan (shared head). I found this quote...

"...the capping station is designed to allow a small amount of air to enter from the drain bottle up through the drain tubes. If the drain tubes between the drain bottle and the capping station are blocked, or if you have a plugged pump, air will not enter the capping station and a siphoning action between the heads may occur. If this siphon action is not broken, ink will flow from an ink cartridge with a higher level to the cartridge with a lower level, actually filling the ink line between the head and the ink cartridge with the wrong colour ink, in an effort to equalize the levels between the two cartridges."

And it seems I had that problem. Some of my tubes were plugged solid, or greatly reduced. I replaced the caps and also the tubing around the pump and drain and it all seems to be flowing now (although I'm not sure if it's possible for the pump to clog up in the same way. I'm not sure how much ink/fluid should be passing through those tubes during cleaning as some is moving, but not a lot).

As mentioned, I changed the caps but not the dampers. I'm afraid to do that since I only have some inexpensive knock off ones as opposed to original Roland.

I also tried the syringe trick multiple times, drawing ink through the heads and caps. The ink was pure black in the syringe, but I assume this is normal as the cyan wouldn't show once mixed with black??

After new parts and tubing and syringe and multiple cleaning, I tried printing out a series of three 5" squares of pure Cyan to help clean out any backed up cross contamination. Results got a bit better after several attempts at this but the cyan is still much darker indicating cross contamination is still happening.

So after a long post, I suppose my question is, what else should I do? Should I put my knockoff dampers in? Also, how far up can cross contamination go? How much ink should I draw out with the syringe to ensure I've cleaned it all out? Is it possible for contamination to make its way all the way back to the ink cartridges and if so should I try all new inks? The black and cyan both have about 25% left in them. All the lines in to the dampers seem to be the correct color, although the cyan into the damper does seem a little dark, but I assume it wouldn't be a bright cyan.

Thanks for any help with this!
 

John.

New Member
I've had this happen before too, I had a scheduled service the following week. So to quickly fix, what I did was pull the contaminated damper from the head and gently draw fresh ink through it using a syringe.

Then I printed a solid 100% cyan 60mm X 60mm cube until the head itself cleaned up.

This worked for me, so it may be worth a try for you.
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
John is on the right track. The black has probably just receded up pretty far and needs to be manually drawn out with a syringe. Sounds like your cap is sealing properly if you can get flow from the syringe. The pump can clog just like the tubes but is more rare. The fact that your tubes were clogged points to that causing the contamination so the new cap top should fix the issue as soon as you draw the cyan back through the system.
 

xxxmain

New Member
Ok, great, thanks guys! I would prefer to not play with the dampers if possible (they scare me a bit), so am I ok to continue drawing ink from the cap rather than the damper? I understand that this will take both black and cyan but at this point, I'm not worried too much about wasting ink so if I'm cool with drawing from the T-fitting under the caps I'd prefer that. Also, should I see any indication of cyan in the ink draw from the caps? I assume it would all look black and I can see that there would be an advantage from drawing from the damper for this reason. Am I also ok to remove the tube from the top of the damper (by removing the finger nut) to draw so I don't have to remove the damper or is it better to pass the ink through the damper?
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Ok, great, thanks guys! I would prefer to not play with the dampers if possible (they scare me a bit), so am I ok to continue drawing ink from the cap rather than the damper? I understand that this will take both black and cyan but at this point, I'm not worried too much about wasting ink so if I'm cool with drawing from the T-fitting under the caps I'd prefer that. Also, should I see any indication of cyan in the ink draw from the caps? I assume it would all look black and I can see that there would be an advantage from drawing from the damper for this reason. Am I also ok to remove the tube from the top of the damper (by removing the finger nut) to draw so I don't have to remove the damper or is it better to pass the ink through the damper?

You can draw it from the cap top and watch the ink line above the damper. It should turn bright cyan eventually instead of dark navy blue like it probably is now. Just do a cleaning cycle after you draw the ink down so it wipes the ink off the bottom of the head. It will waste black ink as you know. If the ink has receded all the way back the entire cartridge could be contaminated but in my experience it usually comes through clean within about 20mL of ink pulled through the system.
 

xxxmain

New Member
You can draw it from the cap top and watch the ink line above the damper. It should turn bright cyan eventually instead of dark navy blue like it probably is now. Just do a cleaning cycle after you draw the ink down so it wipes the ink off the bottom of the head. It will waste black ink as you know. If the ink has receded all the way back the entire cartridge could be contaminated but in my experience it usually comes through clean within about 20mL of ink pulled through the system.

And there's the magic number I think I needed!! Thanks Solventinkjet. I just watched a video on this as well and the dude drew a ton of ink through, and your 20ml number really helps! I only have these dinky 3ml syringes so I'm probably not nearly passing enough ink through. I'm going out now to try to find some bigger syringes. I took a relatively poor picture of my dampers, but it does look like the cyan damper is a little darker than it should be. Another pic I took even showed a bit of cross contamination in my yellow/magenta... so I'll syringe both sides.
dampers.jpg
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Magenta and yellow are looking nice and bright. The cyan is definitely dark. If you haven't already i would put a new cap on the magenta yellow just to start fresh seeing how the tubes were clogged they are probably due for a change anyway.
 

xxxmain

New Member
Magenta and yellow are looking nice and bright. The cyan is definitely dark. If you haven't already i would put a new cap on the magenta yellow just to start fresh seeing how the tubes were clogged they are probably due for a change anyway.

I changed both caps yesterday to be safe. I just got back and could only find a 10ml syringe, so I used it three times to pull a total of 30ml through the black/cyan cap. If anything, the damper got more black after this process. If the cyan is supposed to be as bright as the magenta in my picture then I'm still way off. I did a cleaning and test print, then my 5" cyan squares to confirm that it got worse.

I'm assuming this means that the black got into the cyan cartridge and I should swap to a new cartridge? Do I need to change the black too, or just a new cyan should do the trick? Do I need to flush the lines before putting new cyan in, or just run the syringe again to draw the fresh ink through? Am I missing anything else?
 

xxxmain

New Member
Success!!! Thanks so much again Solventinkjet and John! I swapped in a new cyan cartridge, drew 20ml with syringe through cap (damper didn't go as cyan as I thought it would, but way lighter than before), ran a clean cycle, test print, then printed my squares. You can see in the picture how drastic the change is. Printing a job now and it's working perfect.

This forum is amazing! Cheers

success.jpg
 
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