Roland vs. Mimaki. Help me decide.

[toomeycustoms]

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on an eco solvent machine and have some questions for members who have experience with the machines.

I will mainly be using the machine for wall decals, short run decals and possibly wraps in the future. I've narrowed it down to the Mimaki CJV, the Roland SP/VP series or a refurb Roland SC-540.

1. With the Mimaki will the SS21 inks require venting? What is the difference between the SS21 and ES21 inks?
2. The Mimaki has white ink. Does the printer automatically lay down the ink or do you specify where you want the white to print? Will I have to worry about it drying in the lines?
3. What are the approx maintenance costs for each machine? How much are the heads on each and how many does each have?
4.How is Versaworks compared to Mimaki's software on features and ease of use?
5. What are the advantages/disadvantages of the Roland Sp/Vp over the SC-540 other than additional colors/quality on the SC?
6. Do all of these machine use a regular 120 outlet?
7. Between the 3 models, which would you choose?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

 

[speedmedia]

Personally I feel like Mimaki's are built more for production than a Roland. I haven't used any of Rolands higher end printers either so I could be wrong.

The biggest thing I would suggest is not getting a print/cut machine as it is very limiting. If one breaks, they are both broken, you can only use one at a time etc....

I would go with the Mimaki, but Roland builds a solid printer as well. I would probably demo each one and see what you think...

Thanks,
Kurt

 

[toomeycustoms]

Thanks. I have a VE Q160 and a Q60 as a backup cutter. I want the print/cut for ease of use so I don't have to load/unload media when it isn't necessary. I don't plan on laminating the wall decals or short run decals.

 

[MachServTech]

If ventilation is an issue, look at the HP L25500, plus maintenance costs are going to be low because of the replaceable printheads.

Downside: Needs two 220v connections. Does not come with a RIP.

Upside: Major reliability. No daily cleaning/maintenance.

 

[Molenbeek]

I would go with the Mimaki 100%

Give me a call and we can help you out!


Matt
Advantage Sign Supply

877-237-4464 *1590

 

[Large Format]

Thats easy, go with the best service and support. The Roland and Mimaki are both excellent printers, well engineered and have a solid frame. Both use a DX4 head and similar inks. The Roland dealer network is also very good, most dealers should have a factory trained tech. Also, there are many very good used Pro 11 printers on the market. You can pick up a very good used SC-540 or 545 for less the 12k. Thats a 6 head 54 inch print n cut. The Roland 545 comes with Versa Works (free upgrades). THe 540's software should be upgraded to Wasatch. $600 plus.

I am a Roland dealer so my opinion is a little biased, but I have been servicing this equipment for over 15 years. Best of luck.

 

[toomeycustoms]

If ventilation is an issue, look at the HP L25500, plus maintenance costs are going to be low because of the replaceable printheads.

Downside: Needs two 220v connections. Does not come with a RIP.

Upside: Major reliability. No daily cleaning/maintenance.

I thought about Latex, especially with the deal I saw from Bigfish, but I don't have 220 connections. Otherwise I would be on it.

Thats easy, go with the best service and support. The Roland and Mimaki are both excellent printers, well engineered and have a solid frame. Both use a DX4 head and similar inks. The Roland dealer network is also very good, most dealers should have a factory trained tech. Also, there are many very good used Pro 11 printers on the market. You can pick up a very good used SC-540 or 545 for less the 12k. Thats a 6 head 54 inch print n cut. The Roland 545 comes with Versa Works (free upgrades). THe 540's software should be upgraded to Wasatch. $600 plus.

I am a Roland dealer so my opinion is a little biased, but I have been servicing this equipment for over 15 years. Best of luck.

I was looking into the SC540, one of my local dealers has a refurb one for about 12k. Just needed opinions on how it compares the the VP/SP's.

 

[speedmedia]

I think the Mimaki is essentially a print/cut version of the JV33. If that is the case hands down. We have a Jv33 and that thing is solid, I absolutely love it!

Supposedly the Rolands don't need ventilation, the Mimaki I am sure they suggest it as the inks in those can get a little strong if you are really printing. I like the idea that the heads in the latex printers are easily replaceable as well as virtually maintenance free.

Latex also wouldn't be a bad way to go either as a couple of others have pointed out.

Thanks,
Kurt

 

[Mosh]

Roland all the way.

 

[Robert M]

HP heads

What is the life of the HP heads? Do they have a set number of times they fire and then they just shut off? How much do they cost?

 

[signcrafters london]

When I started looking, I thought I wanted a print/cut machine. I was advised to buy separate machines from posters here. They were 100% right. I bought used, a Mimaki JV3-160SP and CG160FX. I love them both.

BTW, two different Mimaki dealers advised me not to get the CJV series. They recommended JV33 and a separate cutter.

 

[Salmoneye]

How hard could 220 really be? I am usually surprised at how inexpensive it is to get a local guy to run it.

 

[CentralSigns]

220 is so easy to run. Cheaper on most shop tools to run 220. Costs are minimal for regular breakers and you can price wire at any Rona store. What can boost cost is if the distance from the breaker to the equipment is far and not opened walls or ceilings. If it wasn't far $500 would more than cover it.

 

[messmedia]

I had same "problem" a year-or-so ago. I decided for Roland.

Certanly, a fair-offer of 30 440ml free of charge color cartridges helped my decision, but basicly, I kinda leaned towards Roland because I really liked their marketing :{D

Also, they make excellent machines :{DDD

Really, only thing that could b better on my roland is - newer - type of print head. I am not sure if newer rolands U wanna buy have 'em. Newer head would mean my prints would have smaller dot size, and therefore - less grainy. But, 5 picoliter smallest dot size is very small, already, so it is not much of a bad thing. Other than that, those machines are perfect.

I left it unattended for 2 weeks 2 times in the past year, and I didnt even have to do basic head cleaning when I got back, so, U can't go lower-maintenance than that.
My bigest single job was around 300 sqm of vinyl print (more than 3000 sq feet). I printed it without pause (except to change the vinyl roll), and more I printed, machine seem to like it more. I'm tellin ya, it is the biggest romance, me and my Roland :{D.

Now, Mimakis are also excellent machines. The color does smell, but it is not 2 bad (although, Roland's eco-sol max has smell that is actually - pleasant, to me that is). Venting IS ADVICED, - even from Mimaki dealer here.

Both machines have very durable colors, except, when it comes to mechanical impact to printed surface - mimaki does better. That means if you, 4 example, have Your print at constant rain impact, mimaki will stay good little longer. And it is not because of the water, but because of impact of rain drops. Or, If U try to smudge color with a cloth, also, mimaki would b little more resistant. But I mean little, and only on mechanical stuff ...

So, to resume:

With Mimaki, U get little more resistant color, little smaller print dot size (not sure about this - VS rolands have dx6 heads which makes those dots smaller than waterbased photo printers).
Draw-back is little smellier color, more often maintenance needed

With Roland U get to work in healthier (no odor) enviroment, very little maintenance, Roland-famous color management. Also, VersaWorks RIP software is excelent, better than mimaki's (if U do not wanna go 3rd party software)
Draw-back: well, I guess less friction-resistance. But if U laminate, it doesnt matter at all (also, U said wraps are 4 later, maybe :{) )

White color - general advice to me was - "If U do not have a market for white prints already, do not go there". That is because white color must be shaken daily, it tends to harden and clog heads quickly - more problems than earnings, if U do not know U will print it daily ...
BUT!- with mimaki cjv, u can actually use their metalic color solution instead of white. It also requires existing market, because it prints extremely slow and also clog heads easily, but does have value in widening You production possibilities. but remember: If U do not have market for it - do not go there.

Anyway, my oppinion is - whatever U buy - U have same chance to be satisfied - with both machines.

Now quit this bull****, and order that damn Roland! :{DDDDDD (kidding)

 

[Junkie]

print & cut in One

"Thanks. I have a VE Q160 and a Q60 as a backup cutter. I want the print/cut for ease of use so I don't have to load/unload media when it isn't necessary. I don't plan on laminating the wall decals or short run decals."



DO NOT buy a print and cut set up. You cannot just print and cut immediately after a job is done printing. You need to wait until the next day so the inks can dry (You can often times cut later in the day, but we wait until the next day, but not with a full bleed). If you try and cut something that was just printed with a full bleed, the vinyl will curl over on itself. We will print full rolls (or partials) and throw them on the rack until the next day. Then you just cut job after job (In reverse order of course).

Also, printing jobs on your printer while contouring print jobs on your cutter, you have 2 machines making you money at the same time. As someone said above, with the all-in-one setup, if one goes down they are both down.

We have 2 JV3's and highly recommend Mimaki. We are upgrading the JV33's soon. I cannot stress enough how important it is to buy 2 separate machines.

 

[jmcnicoll]

Have you thought about the Epson GS6000? If print quality matters I would consider it.

jim

 

[Wheeler]

Turn heat off and use the cut first and return to origon in versaworks,turn heat on and print... no curl or little curl in bleed.. Roland makes a tough machine.

I used a product call Seramark for wall decals that is not suppose to curl even with a bleed. Imprintables warehouse sells it.

 

[Jim Schneck]

We have a sp540i for about a year now. A lot will depend of what kind of volume you produce.
If you're a high production shop, maybe heed the advice of the separate print/cut setup.

For us, the speed of the printer and the print/cut combo works great. Not tying up space with an extra plotter was a consideration for up and the workflow with versworks has been great.

I must say from experience you can print/cut without lamination on 6mil wall film for temporary window graphics POP etc. Installs easily without the curl others have mentioned with thinner mil vinyl.

 

[Colin]

I have nothing to say about any other printer, but I bought a new SP540i 2 months ago and am very happy with it. It's only a 2-head machine, but as I'm not a high-production shop, it's fast enough for me. The print & cut feature is what sold me.

Whatever you decide on, speak to others who have purchased from the various dealers you are considering, and get feedback on the installation/set-up, tech support, service. I've heard of many who drop off the machine and then disappear.

 

[THull]

Roland or HP

I have run a Mimaki in the past and currently run two Rolands, one with print and cut option. We just brought in the new HP latex printer. I LOVE the new HP. The 220 is not a big deal. We had to have it installed before for the big Roland. The speed and quality are totally worth it. The heads aren't that expensive. You have to change them out every few ink changes. If you are still thinking Roland or Mimaki, in my experience the Roland is a better workhorse and more reliable. The Mimaki seemed to break down more.