Roland VS540 and perforated window decals

[Rualsignmaker]

I am looking at a Roland VS540 to venture into the print world. I have a 54in UScutter that I use for cut decals. I tend to do lots of flags and such for long truck rear windows. My biggest competitor sells perforated printed vinyl rear window decals. I am trying to compete. Does the VS540 handle printing on long (5-6 foot) jobs with perforated vinyl?

And do you laminate perforated?

 

[Zoogee World]

I'm not familiar with that model, could it be the VS-540 or SG-540?

 

[Rualsignmaker]

I'm not familiar with that model, could it be the VS-540 or SG-540?

Yeah VS not SV, my dyslexia?

 

[Zoogee World]

No worries, just wanted to confirm, as the VS and SG are 2 totally different machines. The VS-540, in my personal opinion isn't the greatest model (We had one, and it was broken more than operating), but not the worst either. It would do what you want and have the cutting ability as well, so all-in-one, but if you have the option to get a VS-540i instead, I would push you towards the i, it's just more reliable, and depending on which configuration you are getting (I'd stay away for the white and metallic, unless you'll be using them daily) could print decently quick. I haven't used any perf media, but have used tons of others on our VS-300i (Double CMYK Configuration) and the biggest issue I've had is that sometimes cutting can be finicky on certain medias, but these are mostly specialty films that most people don't use.

 

[Solventinkjet]

The spec is +/- 0.3% over the length of the print so for a 6 foot print you can be off by a little less than a quarter inch either way. If the cut alignments are done properly, the cut accuracy has a similar spec. Perf might give you some trouble as it's not smooth so there can be inconsistencies in the print feed. As long as you run the print feed compensation on the actual material, it should work fine. People do that kind of work with the VS series all the time.

 

[Rualsignmaker]

No worries, just wanted to confirm, as the VS and SG are 2 totally different machines. The VS-540, in my personal opinion isn't the greatest model (We had one, and it was broken more than operating), but not the worst either. It would do what you want and have the cutting ability as well, so all-in-one, but if you have the option to get a VS-540i instead, I would push you towards the i, it's just more reliable, and depending on which configuration you are getting (I'd stay away for the white and metallic, unless you'll be using them daily) could print decently quick. I haven't used any perf media, but have used tons of others on our VS-300i (Double CMYK Configuration) and the biggest issue I've had is that sometimes cutting can be finicky on certain medias, but these are mostly specialty films that most people don't use.

I appreciate the input. How is parts availability for these machines? I assumed since they're Roland brand parts and information should be readily available. I am aware breakdowns occur. Also, do you laminate perforated like you would other printable vinyl?

 

[Rualsignmaker]

The spec is +/- 0.3% over the length of the print so for a 6 foot print you can be off by a little less than a quarter inch either way. If the cut alignments are done properly, the cut accuracy has a similar spec. Perf might give you some trouble as it's not smooth so there can be inconsistencies in the print feed. As long as you run the print feed compensation on the actual material, it should work fine. People do that kind of work with the VS series all the time.

Thanks for the input. I actually would not be cutting the material for those products. I would be cutting other prints though. That's why I am drawn to this machine. The perforated products would be cut to fit by the installer.

 

[Zoogee World]

I don't laminate, as we use don't make signs, so our process is a little different than most, so I couldn't help you with laminating questions, but I'm sure someone on this forum can.

 

[Solventinkjet]

How is parts availability for these machines?

Parts should be easy to find in for the time being. Roland has moved away from Epson based heads so at some point they will stop offering them. The good news is that it's not special to the Roland so you can pop any DX7 head whether it's from Epson directly or Mutoh/Mimaki. I wouldn't worry about getting parts. Even if you need a PCB board that they don't offer anymore, they tend to have them in stock well beyond end of service date and you will be able to find used ones for a while as well.

 

[ewded]

Truevis is junk, trust me. Go with epson or mimaki, maybe an older second hand roland, but stay away from truvis. If there is no window wiper I don't laminate window perf. If you need to laminate it you'll need optically clear laminate. You can get a hand cranked cold laminator from ebay for next to nothing, they work great.

 

[vondegroot]

VS machines are workhorses! Many shops still use today, including myself. Get one working well for 7k and you're laughing.

 

[Rualsignmaker]

Truevis is junk, trust me. Go with epson or mimaki, maybe an older second hand roland, but stay away from truvis. If there is no window wiper I don't laminate window perf. If you need to laminate it you'll need optically clear laminate. You can get a hand cranked cold laminator from ebay for next to nothing, they work great.

I appreciate the input. The VS 540 is an older versa camm. I cant afford a truvis vg2 or what ever they are called. I ended up purchasing the VS 540 used form another sign shop today.

 

[Rualsignmaker]

VS machines are workhorses! Many shops still use today, including myself. Get one working well for 7k and you're laughing.

What if I told you I just paid $4800 for one locally? Just been serviced.

 

[Zoogee World]

You got a pretty good deal, just make sure the head is in good shape, once you have it shop, that would be one of the first things to check. The only downside of those ones are the heads are a pain if you need to replace, even worse if you only need to change the damper, as they fry easily if your not careful. Do you know if it's been used recently or if it's just been sitting a while?

 

[Rualsignmaker]

You got a pretty good deal, just make sure the head is in good shape, once you have it shop, that would be one of the first things to check. The only downside of those ones are the heads are a pain if you need to replace, even worse if you only need to change the damper, as they fry easily if your not careful. Do you know if it's been used recently or if it's just been sitting a whileI

I was able to watch it print before I bought it. Looks clean and clear. They left the switch on so the heads would do their self-cleaning and it sounds like they have been using it every day. Very little downtime. I'm sure it will be good practice to have it looked at once its here by a professional. They mentioned it was just serviced and some ribbon cables were replaced and or cleaned for maintenance. I will admit, this is scary and a big step for my shop. However, owning a business is just problem-solving.

 

[Zoogee World]

I was able to watch it print before I bought it. Looks clean and clear. They left the switch on so the heads would do their self-cleaning and it sounds like they have been using it every day. Very little downtime. I'm sure it will be good practice to have it looked at once its here by a professional. They mentioned it was just serviced and some ribbon cables were replaced and or cleaned for maintenance. I will admit, this is scary and a big step for my shop. However, owning a business is just problem-solving.

That's good. Make sure they ship it properly and put the shipping piece in to protect the head during transport, otherwise it may have printed nice at there shop, but you could have a mess when it gets to you, I'd also recommend draining the lines, that way no leaks happen. Once you get it to your place, I would recommend going over it just to make sure everything is in order before you start to use it. As long as it was well maintained, it should still be a good machine for you.

 

[rjssigns]

For rear windows I add a 0.5" bleed then hand trim to that. Doesn't have to be perfect. I can do that faster than bringing the print to the plotter, getting it lined up blah, blah blah...

If you want them neatly trimmed for packing at the retail level set up a CutContour template. Then build your work inside of that.
I wouldn't get too tricky about having an exact fit with arced top and radius corners. That's more headache than it's worth.

 

[ikarasu]

If you are printing for vehicles then you do need to laminate the back otherwise when it rains you won't be able to see out the window at all.

 

[rjssigns]

If you are printing for vehicles then you do need to laminate the back otherwise when it rains you won't be able to see out the window at all.

Good point. Although laminate is a variable depending on state or local laws. In my neck of the woods no laminate is required so I spray with automotive clear.

 

[Rualsignmaker]

For rear windows I add a 0.5" bleed then hand trim to that. Doesn't have to be perfect. I can do that faster than bringing the print to the plotter, getting it lined up blah, blah blah...

If you want them neatly trimmed for packing at the retail level set up a CutContour template. Then build your work inside of that.
I wouldn't get too tricky about having an exact fit with arced top and radius corners. That's more headache than it's worth.

Absolutely. I already make overlays in vinyl for rear windows. They ship as a rectangle and the installer cut them to fit. The printed ones will follow the same idea.