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rolling edges on composite material?

Forty One

Make signs they said... It'll be fun they said...
Is anyone rolling the edges of their composite sheets to give a really nice edge?
I've seen this particulat finish on some jobs adn I would like to replicate it for use when I make our braille signs.
I want to use a standard sheet of ACM and cut multiple panles to the size we need. E.G. 200mm x 180mm
But instead of having the core visible from the side, I want to have the face of the sheetroll over the edge to give a better finish and also look a bit more premium.
I assume this would be done with some kind of CNC, However, I don't own one and would like to use my tools/equipment on hand.
After running a bit around the edge to give enough material to cover the side, how would I go about rolling the face material over and also handle the radius corners?
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Simplly done. If you want it to appear more profess8onal, use more professional substrates. Ya can't polish a turd.
 

Forty One

Make signs they said... It'll be fun they said...
folded_edge_bewerkt_0.jpg
 

Forty One

Make signs they said... It'll be fun they said...
Simplly done. If you want it to appear more profess8onal, use more professional substrates. Ya can't polish a turd.
WHat are you talking about?
I want to use a substrate we use on a regular basis but finish it as per the above image.
 

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
It's not so much removing the necessary back aluminum and core. Simply done on a router or table saw, even a, gag, radial arm saw or panel saw could serve. The difficulty is in the bending of the front aluminum. Without a brake capable of making these tiny bends, you'll have to do it by hand most likely. You can use the round shank of a screw driver to fold it, I'd opt for a brass bar with rounded corners. Mostly because I have one that I use to reform and dress the edges of saw cut ACM. Don't forget to notch the corners before you bend.

The photo clearly shows that it can be done, the question is what techniques and equipment was used to do it.
 

ikarasu

Active Member
You don't need a break to bend it as it's really thin. You can just route the back/ core out, then just put the sign flat on its face on a table... Lift up and push and it'll give a nice 90 degree bend.

It's better if you route out an inch or so and do it that way, bend it twice and wrap it around the back... And use a thin tape to hole it in place tightly... Otherwise it'll start to lift over time.


It's a pain, and imo the labor isn't worth it. But it is doable.
 

Forty One

Make signs they said... It'll be fun they said...
The process I know and understand, i.e. routering and folding etc.
But rather than folding it by hand, is there any benchtops/small setups around that will aid in the folding?
I've seen it done on a CNC, so the principal is there.
I'm thinking something like a small edge bander hybrid sheet folder v roller concept.
I really want to take out the whole painting aluminium panels bit from the process of making the braille plates.
I print all my braille. Not the old way of punching the balls in etc.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
That does look cool, but I would be concerned about 2 things, how repeatable it is in production, and how durable it would be. ACM is a fickle beast, especially on small ADA style signs, every imperfection shows up. We also use ACM for braille signs and we paint the edges to match the faces, if you leave the protective masking on them and stack them up it takes a few minutes to paint hundreds of blanks.
 

Forty One

Make signs they said... It'll be fun they said...
Aussie standards are a bit more different to the states.
We can't have any sharp edges. So all corners need to have a 5mm radius and edges need to be rounded. Unfortunately that means the stack and paint option wouldn't really fly.
Yes... There are people in Australia who wouldn't be so worried about small details as such, but since I helped write the standards for braille incorporated in the BCA, I kinda gotta practice what I preach.
But... For other applications that sounds promising.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Simplly done. If you want it to appear more profess8onal, use more professional substrates. Ya can't polish a turd.

I didn't say it couldn't be done, but how you explained yourself.... YOU can't get around doing it professionally and with professionalism in the product.
 

ikarasu

Active Member
I find that bending ACM will crack the aluminum. Usually only 1 direction though
Depends on your ACM.

Every brand has different thickness's for the skin - the brand we use has a thicker front skin then back.... The thinner aluminum bends easier and doesn't crack as easy, can do a 90 no problem with it.

Now if you try to bend it with the plastic still in the center it'll break easy because it's putting more tension on the aluminum piece.
 

Hazzmatte

New Member
Depends on your ACM.

Every brand has different thickness's for the skin - the brand we use has a thicker front skin then back.... The thinner aluminum bends easier and doesn't crack as easy, can do a 90 no problem with it.

Now if you try to bend it with the plastic still in the center it'll break easy because it's putting more tension on the aluminum piece.
Ya,….we use a grove tool to dig out the pvc but when we go to make the bend it snaps off- but only in only one direction. The other direction it’s not a problem

What brand of ACM do you use?
 

netsol

Premium Subscriber
probably easier if you route away a bit more than you need, grab & bend with something like the above, then, use a bit with a bearing to cut off the excess
 
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