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Rough Sandstone Face + Gemini Lettering

TXFB.INS

New Member
Gemini Lettering (formed plastic) with extension mounts going onto a rough/raw cut sandstone face monument sign

what is the best method for ensuring that all the letters are square, level, and on the same axis when looking at it straight on
The template will be used for the holes but the question is more to the letters themselves and making sure that when you are looking at them they aren't facing different angles once installed onto the face
 

JR's

New Member
You could call Gemini. Most likely they will recommend standoff pads. The post goes through the pads and they could be adjusted for different heights. Install as normal then with a straight edge on the letters adjust the pads.
Hope this helps
 

TXFB.INS

New Member
Thanks for the tips, the pads are looking like the better way to go.
a lot better than the studs, letting the silicone set then adjust
 

TXFB.INS

New Member
typo*

meant to say STUDS ONLY

yes the combo is looking to be the best option


@Graphic Destruction
can't do a rail system , this is a "clean install" they want no visible mounting hardware
 

Rick

Certified Enneadecagon Designer
What was taught to me was:

-- Get a piece of wood or pvc the same depth or a little thicker as the stud will be that inserts into the letter. I sometimes add an angle on the top and/or bottom to stiffen up the board so lettering is on the same plane

-- Drill the pattern into the PVC/WOOD, Making sure you have a level line when you hold it up to the wall.

-- Place pvc/wood pattern to wall making sure it's level, then drill stud holes.

-- Clean holes.

-- Place studs through the pvc/wood and into the newly drilled holes.

-- Mark and cut, or just cut off excess stud section.

-- Insert newly cut studs into the correct stud hole into the letter...

-- Install letters
 

Moze

Active Member
There are different ways to do this obviously.


I prefer the following method:


1.) Tape up your paper pattern.

2.) Determine the highest point of the wall (the portion that sticks out further than the rest) that falls within your pattern area.

3.) Draw a large circle (12" or so) on your pattern around the high point. Note which letter(s) fall within that circle.

4.) Drill your holes. For holes where your bit will likely slip (on steep edges, etc.), use a China marker/grease pencil/Sharpie to mark the location on the wall.

5.) Once your holes are drilled, install the letter(s) closest to (or directly over) the high point. That will be the letter you base all of the others off of since that's your highest point.

6.) There's usually some feature on the building you can eye the edge of the letter up with to ensure the letter face is parallel to the wall. If not, hopefully you have a good eye...that helps tremendously.

7.) Use a plastic level (to keep from marring the letter faces) and using that first letter, you can ensure all other letter faces are even with each other.

8.) Dry fit letters before applying silicone. Often in masonry surfaces, the aggregate can affect the direction of your bit. If your bit goes in crooked, it can make the letter "pull" and it's difficult to get it to stay plumb. If this happens, thread a nut onto the stud (or use pads), then put the letter in the wall. Adjust the letter to where it needs to be and back the nut (or pad) against the wall. Then take the letter out, apply silicone and install. The nuts are a little less visible than the pads, but both serve the same purpose.

9.) Assuming you're using 10-24 studs, bring a 1/4" bit in addition to your 3/16" bit. If your bit wanders, you may need to enlarge a few holes to help adjust the letters.
 
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