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SP-300V Cut Carriage Cable replacement guide

Discussion in 'Roland' started by kaotic1, Jun 21, 2012.

  1. kaotic1

    kaotic1 New Member

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    Sep 12, 2011
    Wantagh, NY
    My machine has been acting up for a while and I figured out by doing some reading on here that its most likely the cut carriage cable. I ordered one from my local supply house and have had it sitting around for a week now. Finally went to try to replace it today and I'm realizing replacing it is a bit more complicated than I had anticipated.

    I was hoping that someone on here might have a guide on how to replace this thing, I've already replaced a few parts on the machine myself but the bottom of the cable seems to go a bit deeper into the guts of it than anything else I've done. Any chance one of you guys have the instructions for this so that I'm not defeated into calling a tech to come do it?
     
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  2. ova

    ova Member

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    Dec 22, 2008
    Wheeling, WV
    Replacing the cable is not so hard, but there's more to the job than just the cable.

    I've found out that the real culprut is the two clear strips that sandwich the cable. When these become weak from constant bending, it causes the cable to kink.

    Also excessive build up of ink over spray on the cable guide and cable will not allow the cable to roll freely. Then there's those little pins with the sleeves. You need to change those, also. If you've nerver removed them for any reason before, they can become damaged & not hold when their replaced.

    I would call a tech. When he gets there and starts the work, I would ask him if he minds you watching. Then you can learn the proper way to do the job. They'll be another time come along the cable will need changed.

    Dave
     
  3. kaotic1

    kaotic1 New Member

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    Sep 12, 2011
    Wantagh, NY
    I actually bought the sleeves and a few extra clips also. The job does look easy enough, just that the bottom half of the cable seems to go off a bit further into the machine than I've ever gone. I'm doing my best to avoid having to call someone to come fix it if at all possible.
     
  4. ova

    ova Member

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    Dec 22, 2008
    Wheeling, WV
    You have to remove the cover over the main board in the back. Maybe 8 screws. The cable plugs into the board there.

    Before you remove the old cable, make a note how it's plugged in. One side of the cable has writing on it. If you plug it in backwards, all kinds of bad things might happen.

    Don't pull the cable too tight when you fish it thru the hole to plug it in. A small loop works the best. Don't kink the new cable. The wires are so small when you try to straighten the cable back out, they might break.

    Before you do any kind of repair like this, I'm sure you knkow to shut off and unplug the machine.

    Dave
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. kaotic1

    kaotic1 New Member

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    Sep 12, 2011
    Wantagh, NY
    Ok perfect, thanks for taking the time to respond. If I feel like I'm in over my head when I get the cover off of the back than I'll give my tech a call.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. cajun312

    cajun312 Active Member

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    Jun 26, 2005
    Louisiana
    My dealer sent me this when I changed mine. Between this and things I found online changing it wasn't too hard, took me and my son a couple of hours at the most.
    When you unplug the cable from the back of the printer, tape the new cable to the old one so you can pull the new one into the front of the printer.
     

    Attached Files:

    • Like Like x 1
  7. kaotic1

    kaotic1 New Member

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    Sep 12, 2011
    Wantagh, NY
    That PDF will be a HUGE help, thank you!
     
  8. salescounter

    salescounter New Member

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    Mar 18, 2013
    Worked like a charm.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 18, 2013
  9. houseofgrafix

    houseofgrafix none

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    cw
    used this today!

    thanks
     
  10. wayanka

    wayanka New Member

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    Nov 26, 2013
    thanks from italy
     
  11. BA Signs

    BA Signs New Member

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    Jun 19, 2015
    Thank you cajun312

    Thank you for posting that pdf. It helped A LOT!
     
  12. ocean502

    ocean502 Member

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    Apr 29, 2008
    California
    I'm attempting to change this on my sp-540. I don't see a hole with a rod that the directions refer to. $665.00 for a tech to come out. My machine is all taken apart. Waiting for hubby to get home.
    Any imput on this rod not being on my 540 or where to find it
     
  13. rjssigns

    rjssigns Major Contributor

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    Jun 4, 2007
    Home Office
    The rod does not stay with the machine. It is a metal tube with a crimped end you use to lower the capping station. If you can't find it you can make another.

    Helpful hint. When I replaced the cables on my SP540V I put a long piece of tape on the metal above the track. This allowed me to write notes/locations of things as I went. Much easier to put things back together.
     
  14. ocean502

    ocean502 Member

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    Apr 29, 2008
    California
    Do you have to lower the capping station? I don't see where to do that. I have the nut driver with the 5/16 socket.
     
  15. rjssigns

    rjssigns Major Contributor

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    Jun 4, 2007
    Home Office
    Time for you to call a tech.
     
  16. ocean502

    ocean502 Member

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    Apr 29, 2008
    California
    Replacing cut carriage cable and clear guards. Roland SP-540v

    I didn't lower the capping station. (Still never saw where to do that, may be a sp-300 thing) Everything went great. Aside from a screw stripping, don't try to get a hard to get to screw with a screw gun, use a smaller screwdriver. As someone may have mentioned, I would get some extra nylon rivets (they sell on ebay). Mine went thru quite a lot and stayed in tact, but they look as though they can break easily. They are two parts. I used a small flathead screw driver to wiggle them partially out then used needle nosed pliers to remove them. To put back in you have to squeeze outer part and slide in hole then put pin/nail looking part in. The tape trick works great, as mentioned above.
    I would also recommend writing down in order the things you remove. The pdf looks as though you have to remove the front cover under where the media feeds, but you don't. The only things that are removed are above the media. I used a muffin tin and put tape labeled with what screws I took out, ex. blue guard, top of machine, etc. Also, HIGHLY recommend laying out paper or tape down so those small screws don't fall in your machine. I used a long screwdriver with double sided tape to get those. Screws seem to find where you don't cover and fall through. Hope this helps any other blondes out there. lol ALSO, TAKE PICTURES OF EVERYTHING BEFORE REMOVING. The only things I didn't take pics of I should have. Good luck. Thanks for the confidence RJS Signs. :)
     
  17. Eco Wall Decals

    Eco Wall Decals New Member

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    Nov 28, 2015
    PDF was a big help, thank you

    It worked! Thank you for posting the pdf cajun312.
    I didn't have a head cap tool to lower the print heads with, so I plugged the machine in to use manual cleaning mode, and then I just unplugged it again after the head carriage was in the left position. I did have to put the machine partway back together for it to switch into manual cleaning mode though. Take a "before" picture on your machine of each side of the tool carriage board so you can remember how the reconnect the new flexible cable and cable guides - the diagram on the pdf is correct, but it's easier to visualize with a picture. I got stuck on that part, trying to figure it out. And an extra set of hands is always helpful!
     
  18. player

    player Major Contributor

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    Apr 24, 2006
    Toronto
    There is a metal tube fatter than a pencil. You use this as a wrench to turn a nut under the capping station.
    It is also how to manually adjust the cap height.
     
  19. mvp-graphics

    mvp-graphics New Member

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    Oct 17, 2016
    Portland Or.
    Thanks but a no go for me

    I appreciate the info as I replaced my carriage cable with ease by using the .pdf provided. Thanks.

    Unfortunately, my problem still exist somewhere. Basically, my cut pressure is going away. Where I use to cut htm2 vinyl at 50grams, i'm now at 95 and when Im trying to cut 3 mil lamination, it barely cuts trough it. Then of course when I cut 11 mil and above for MX graphics, it barely scores it. I can put the pressure at the max(300g) and its the same.

    I have been reading forums and talking with Roland techs who have have me replace the cutter strip, blade holder(obviously been buying numerous eom 60 degree blades) and now just replaced the carriage ribbon cable. Nothing has changed except the hole in my wallet. Whats next. Any suggestions?
     
  20. JohnnyB123

    JohnnyB123 New Member

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    Oct 10, 2012
    SP300 ribbon cable replacement

    Thanks cadun312...
    Just done the second one of these - this time using your guide also. Replaced ribbon cable after carriage returning various 0mm/invalid pinchroller pos/setup sheet errors... worked like a charm. Would just want to add to anyone about to do this - Set aside quite a bit of time for this task (took me & my girlfriend best part of two hours start to finish), have a nice clean workbench nearby (if pos) for bits that come of machine & tools etc., wear gloves if pos & take your time. The little black clips are super fiddly - esp. trying to avoid the clear encoder strip - but it's worth trying to get cable and clear guides to sit nicely together as .pdf when re-fitting - might help with longevity... & consult owner's manual as how to re-wind capping station back-up to heads properly (using adjustment tube into hole - underneath machine near ink bottle on SP300)... Great guide IMHO ...

    Oh & ps. Using sticky tape trick really works - also if you can take snaps on your phone as you go - they come in so handy when re-fitting, for the position of everthing like the ribbon/connectors/protection strips etc.
     
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