Welcome To Signs101.com: Largest Forum for Signmaking Professionals

Signs101.com: Largest Forum for Signmaking Professionals is the LARGEST online community & discussion forum for professional sign-makers and graphic designers.

 


  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

SP-300V Fuse Blowing Problem

Discussion in 'Roland' started by rcf51kodiak, Nov 2, 2010.

  1. rcf51kodiak

    rcf51kodiak New Member

    3
    0
    0
    Oct 31, 2009
    Hello,

    First off I want to thank all the forum members for their valuable information over the past 2 years, I have read many post and have learned a lot but know there is still much to learn.

    I purchased a new SP-300V at the end of 2008 it has been a problem child since about a week after I purchased it but that is neither here nor there.

    A few days ago I went to do a print and the Y/M were not printing so I replaced the the manifold and the dampers on the yellow and magenta and tried to print again still no Y/M so I read in the forums here and decided to swap print head cables.

    I moved the cables from black and cyan to yellow and magenta and taped over the contacts of Y/M cables and then proceeded to print again by printing black and cyan and the yellow and magenta head printed perfectly on about a 20x20 piece so from reading in the forum I decided to check F2 and F3 fuse sure enough F2 fuse was blown so I assumed I had maybe touched the cable on something or seated improperly when I changed the manifold and dampers.

    I then shut down printer and switched back cables and went and purchased a replacement fuse thinking I had found the problem. The next day I removed main board and cables and when I had the board on bench I checked The fuses for continuity and now the F3 fuse was also blown so I replaced them both. I then put board back in and hooked up cables and tried a print now I have no colors firing, checked fuses and both F2 and F3 were now blown.

    I purchased three fuses so I put the remaining fuse in F3 and then only plugged in servo board cable and control panel cable and when sub power button was pushed it blew the fuse again. I can do everything but print, it cuts fine I can access service menu fine just cannot print.

    I have more fuses coming to maybe help me diagnose problem further but I was wondering if anyone has experienced a similar problem and if so they could guide me in the right direction. Was wondering if it could be that the capacitors still had current in them when I hooked cables back up but that is just a guess and can not try until new fuses arrive.

    I know that having an experienced Roland Tech is the proper way to do things since that is what they are trained to do, but machine is out of warranty and I am recovering from a major injury with no insurance and financial situation is bleak at best.

    I would appreciate feedback from anybody that has had a similar problem or someone that can give me a few ideas to try. I have scoured over the forums and read a few similar problems but none that are quite the same. So please forgive me if this sounds like a repost of some sort.

    Thank You
     
    Tags:
  2. Your mainboard may be bad.

    After you replace the fuses and put board back in machine, unplug the 2 main ribbon cables (cables go from Main board to print/cut carriage board). Turn the printer on, then turn off...check fuses, if ok then board is ok.

    Items that can cause the fuse to blow.....

    Bad Cables
    Bad Boards
    Bad Head

    Good Luck

    PS-I have had a bad motor for the wiper that kept blowing the power supply board.....electrical shorts can be soo much fun!!!

    My .02

    GTSTech
     
  3. rcf51kodiak

    rcf51kodiak New Member

    3
    0
    0
    Oct 31, 2009
    Thanks GTSTech for the reply I was starting to think my post was invisible,

    I installed new fuses and then the only cable I plugged in was for the front panel but it said sevice call 0002 so i then plugged in the cable that connects mainboard to servo board and as soon as I push the sub power button it takes out the fuses. Any ideas would be very much appreciated.

    Thank You
     
  4. DRamm76

    DRamm76 Member

    496
    1
    0
    May 17, 2007
    If it's taking out the fuses as soon as you connect te servo to the main board, that may be a good indication that one of the boards is bad completely.
     
  5. :thumb: @GTSTech_1

    Ink plumbing issues, dampers, captops, head adjusts, etc... are all easy repairs.

    It's when you need someone to chase down shorts is when an experienced field tech is invaluable.

    Don't you just love curling up with a Roland schematic to follow signals/voltages???

    ~E
     
  6. rcf51kodiak

    rcf51kodiak New Member

    3
    0
    0
    Oct 31, 2009
    I am not loving much about this machine yet alone the lovely wiring diagrams LOL... The place where I purchased it 20 months ago is no longer a roland dealer as far as I can tell and they dont seem all that concerned about my problem or they have no idea how to fix it.

    I have contacted one tech and they told me 175.00 dollars an hour with four hour minimum and there is no guarantee that they will do anything other than start replacing boards at full price. Is this a normal cost and procedure of roland techs? I have went to a few websites that say they do board repair, has anyone used such a service with any luck? if so could you please let me know how to get in contact with them. If names of buisnesses are not allowed in the forums could you please send me a PM.

    Thank You
     
  7. Optic

    Optic Member

    31
    0
    0
    Jun 24, 2010
    Not to hijack this thread, but I'm running into a very similar issue.

    Long story short, I was getting dropout on my black and after repeated cleanings it wasn't doing much better. One final cleaning by putting the syringe with cleaning fluid on the manifold resulted in some liquid leaking out (crap!). The black/cyan printhead then stopped running completely.

    I replaced the print head (I had one on order because of the dropout anyway) and still no go. Checked fuse F3 and it was blown. I replaced F3, (had an electrical repair place do it holy smokes those things are small). Hooked everything up and still no black/cyan. I just checked F3 again and it's blown.

    I have good suction on the black/cyan when pulling from the cap.

    Please help. Please. I am five hours from the nearest Roland dealer and at $90 an hour for driving time, plus $150 an hour it's a bit out of my ability to pay (I'm in my first year of business too). The tech has been helpful, but even changing the fuse is over his head.

    Thanks folks!
     
  8. Cables??

    @Optic

    Sounds like a cable issue.

    Is the M/Y head firing correctly? If so, replace the fuse and use the flex cable from the known good head on the K/C head. (Just leave the M/Y unconnected). If it blows again, it's not the cable.

    I have also seen a damaged cable actually pull the pins out of the connector itself. The edge of the cable kinda grabs the pin and out it comes. Something to keep in mind if you feel resistance on the cable...

    As for the question about avg tech rates... it's all over the place. Roland dealers here in the Northeast are charging every where from $100 to $200 onsite and with $75-$100/hr travel. If you can find an independent guy (wink), he will usually charge around $75/hr onsite and $50/hr for travel.

    ... for what it's worth...

    ~E
     
  9. Optic

    Optic Member

    31
    0
    0
    Jun 24, 2010
    Yes - the M/Y head is firing correctly. Doing a cable swap of both cables (switching the cables completely from one head/connection to the other) results in M/Y head continuing to work properly.

    I tried attaching the cables from the K/C head to the M/Y connector, but then I get a temperature warning as the other cables aren't hooked up and the machine uses the K/C head for measuring head temperature.
    [edit] I am hesitant to attach the K/C control cable to the M/Y head. Something in my gut says don't do it.

    Help!


     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2010
  10. Mainboard cable

    Did you ever unplug the cable from the mainboard to the carriage board as GTSTech suggested to help rule out a mainboard issue?

    ~E
     
  11. cobo_design

    cobo_design Imaginative art ga

    14
    0
    1
    Oct 13, 2009
    Sugar Hill
    HJI, i have the same problem!!!, go to the http://jemmings.com website, they will repair your main boarf for 500 bucks, we do 2 months ago and my sp 540 is runing all day!!
     
  12. Optic

    Optic Member

    31
    0
    0
    Jun 24, 2010
    Ok - an update!

    The fuse is blowing when it's installed because one of the transistors has failed (so it blows the fuse immediately when power is put on).

    I'll be looking at buying some new ones. Anyone know of cheap suppliers for these? I know macmedia has them, but I'll replace all of them rather than just the affected one and they are $10 each.
     
  13. nikelson

    nikelson New Member

    12
    0
    0
    Feb 20, 2010
    Optic, which transistor do you think has failed?
     
  14. Optic

    Optic Member

    31
    0
    0
    Jun 24, 2010
    The transistor was an A1746.

    I've sent my board away as buying a new set of transistors and having them replaced locally (with no guarantee) was roughly the same price as sending it to MacMedia for their guaranteed service.
     
  15. marleyjoeb

    marleyjoeb Member

    65
    0
    0
    Dec 28, 2007
    how did you test the transistor? i am having the same fuse blowing issue after changing print heads....joeb
     
  16. cheryld

    cheryld New Member

    17
    0
    1
    Nov 19, 2009
    Richland Center, wi
    Did you ever figure out your problem. I'm having problems. I tested the F2 & F3 fuses and think they are ok but now I'm questioning myself. I'm thinking about changing them just to rule that out. Thoughts?
     
Loading...

Share This Page

 


Loading...