• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

sp300 vinyl

ChaseO

Premium Subscriber
If you think 3165 is thin, then you aren't going to like anyone's suggestions. 651 and 751 are not printable material, and while people do and it can be printed on, there are better options out there, just not thick options.
 

T_K

New Member
You can use the Oracal 651 on windows. I have before. But it is only a cut vinyl. And it will shrink up and leave an adhesive outline around the letters which collect dirt. Not really a problem for short term application.

Question: why are you wanting a "thick" vinyl for vehicle window decals? What advantage do you see in this?
 

graphix

New Member
You can use the Oracal 651 on windows. I have before. But it is only a cut vinyl. And it will shrink up and leave an adhesive outline around the letters which collect dirt. Not really a problem for short term application.

Question: why are you wanting a "thick" vinyl for vehicle window decals? What advantage do you see in this?

3165 curls with ink on edges...
 

ChaseO

Premium Subscriber
That has more to do with the cheap vinyl than it does the thickness. Are you laminating these prints, with clearshield or film either one? If not, don't plan to put your cutline next or in the ink. For a window lettering, regular ol 3651 gets the job done for me most of the time unless I know it needs to be more permanent.
 

T_K

New Member
That has more to do with the cheap vinyl than it does the thickness. Are you laminating these prints, with clearshield or film either one? If not, don't plan to put your cutline next or in the ink. For a window lettering, regular ol 3651 gets the job done for me most of the time unless I know it needs to be more permanent.

Part of it might be the cheap vinyl. The other thing that comes to my mind is allowing sufficient dry time for the ink before application.

This week, I had to run some product labels straight from the printer into the laminator and back to cut. Not my choice - our customer had run out before ordering more. I was using Avery 1005 SC with the DOL 1060 laminate. So not the economy stuff. Anyway, the print was a heavy saturation of ink, full bleed, and the cut edges were curling up.
The labels that I could let dry for a day or two aren't doing that.
 

graphix

New Member
That has more to do with the cheap vinyl than it does the thickness. Are you laminating these prints, with clearshield or film either one? If not, don't plan to put your cutline next or in the ink. For a window lettering, regular ol 3651 gets the job done for me most of the time unless I know it needs to be more permanent.

What profile prints best with your printer on 3651..thanks
 
Top