Sprinter wrap q

[Quark]

Hi Guys, we're bidding on re-wrapping a Sprinter full body wrap. Customer is unhappy with the previous wrap job because of the vinyl tunneling/unwrapping in the indent areas. I'm attaching a failure picture. My understanding that we should pre-heat the vinyl, minimizing the stretching, and post heat after it settles. Maybe even use 3m primer. Anything else I'm missing? customer wants a written 3 year warranty. Will print / laminate on 3m IJ180-10 cv3 w/8518 lam. Thanks!

 

[reQ]

1) I would never give 3 year warranty on a wrap, thats insane. I do 1 year and i think most of us here do the same
2) There are couple videos from Cookie @ 3M how to tackle these areas, just google it

 

[2B]

3 years? no way would we offer that and they require a 3 year then the project is passed on

we also do a 1 year limited warranty

regarding the tenting, looks like they spaned and heated instead of laying it into the channel and or didn't properly post heat

 

[jfiscus]

Sounds like a good materials combo to use, but you might still want to put some relief cuts in there; defer to your professional installer about that and their plan.
What material was used previously/currently?

I would have no trouble with guaranteeing the wrap 3 years using proper materials and installation techniques. Let them know that horizontal surfaces are not included in the warranty.

 

[Behrmon]

I've become partial to 480 on deep channel vehicles.

 

[T_K]

Would creating an overlapped seam in the recess help at all? Similar idea to a relief cut, but built into the layout. That way, you wouldn't have to stress the vinyl going into the recess.

As I'm thinking about it, my biggest concern with this idea would be matching up the graphics, especially with the sample design.

I generally like the idea of doing seamless panels, but I haven't ever tackled something with such deep recesses like that. Would the seam help, or just make it more complicated than necessary?

 

[jpsamuel06]

I do these with no primer, like every job. Make sure you clean properly. Especially the channels!!! Every wrap i do starts with a normal car wash. Then remove any parts that your able to, the more that comes off.. The less you have to stretch or cut around. Then clean with rapid prep, or another wax and grease remover, followed by rapid tac finishing with rubbing alcohol. The whole vehicle gets this procedure, especially channels... Sometimes those get extra attention, ESPECIALLY if you are removing a wrap that has already failed. Hth

 

[Quark]

Thanks guys. Lots of good info

 

[CSOCSO]

use the vcat-2 roller.
use primer. Roll it in and post heat to 200f. try to use 480. the kit will be a $100 more probably.

 

[Dennis422]

If that fails, it will fail in the first few months. No need for a three year warranty because if they are concern about film lifting, they will see that way before the first year is over.
So, one year warranty should suffice.

3 options:
1. Heat the vinyl away from the recess and push with the finger slowly in the recess to actually stretch the film on the flat areas.
2. Cut and drop
3. Print the strips of vinyl with a similar design or a solid color that is in that area and apply that to the steep area of the recess. Then cut and drop. That will prevent white from the sprinter to show.

 

[suess]

Also I think there is an issue with the paint if i'm not mistaken could be a different model/brand but they have water based paint.

 

[Desert_Signs]

Cut, drop, and overlay with mold and hold tape.

Those areas will NEVER lift, it looks clean and consistent, much faster to install, and your customer will love it.

 

[grafixemporium]

Who the hell can afford to use 480 to wrap a sprinter for commercial use?

Just relief cut it. If you're not good with a blade, use knifeless tape. If the trim out is still sloppy, follow ^^^ advise and overlay pin striping or mold n hold. We've never used either of those on Sprinter recesses and our wraps hold up perfectly fine. In my opinion, a relief cut with a thin strip of white showing is less visually intrusive that a thick black strip of tape.

 

[Desert_Signs]

Who the hell can afford to use 480 to wrap a sprinter for commercial use?

Just relief cut it. If you're not good with a blade, use knifeless tape. If the trim out is still sloppy, follow ^^^ advise and overlay pin striping or mold n hold. We've never used either of those on Sprinter recesses and our wraps hold up perfectly fine. In my opinion, a relief cut with a thin strip of white showing is less visually intrusive that a thick black strip of tape.

Youd be surprised. My customers absolutely love it and have commented that they like it better than the strip of white that other shops leave. It's also only a 1/2". Not exactly a thick strip.

 

[CSOCSO]

who can afford 480? isn't that only a $100 extra?
Not sure how much is the molding tape but regular flat black vinyl might work too. Just cut strips with a straight edge.
Laying deep concave areas with finger??? uhhh. I did that back in the days when i started to wrap. Never again. Every time i see a lifted vinyl i assume they were using fingers to lay it in there.

 

[grafixemporium]

who can afford 480? isn't that only a $100 extra?

I was actually thinking 380 when they posted 480. I've never tried 480 and only tested 380 to see what it was all about. Either way, my argument still stands. The cost for vinyl and lam is significantly higher on both counts. For show cars and special projects, I'd consider it. For plumbing vans and pool cleaning trucks, I think it's overkill and will make it very difficult to close leads in a competitive market.

I'm sure pricing varies, but generally speaking, a set of 380/8548 will be about 45% higher and a set of 480/8548 will be about 25% higher than a set of 180cv3/8518. It's hard enough to win bids up against Lowball Joe with a website and a printer in his garage. We cannot afford to go overboard on unnecessary materials for an every day commercial wrap that looks perfectly fine with 180cv3 and a quality installation.

Not sure how much is the molding tape but regular flat black vinyl might work too. Just cut strips with a straight edge.

The big advantage I can see to using the mold n hold tape is that you can clean up one side of the van with one strip of tape and one small seam. If you cut strips of 60" matte black vinyl you would have to piece it together.

 

[Behrmon]

I'm sure pricing varies, but generally speaking, a set of 380/8548 will be about 45% higher and a set of 480/8548 will be about 25% higher than a set of 180cv3/8518. It's hard enough to win bids up against Lowball Joe with a website and a printer in his garage. We cannot afford to go overboard on unnecessary materials for an every day commercial wrap that looks perfectly fine with 180cv3 and a quality installation.

While I agree that the price difference hurts I justify it with a couple of factors:
• I'm much more confident in no channel failures using 480 on a vehicle with deep channels.
• No need IME for primer, (Less labor time).
• As advertised, seems to be a good bit more forgiving to installation temperatures.

I personally don't want to beat "Joe Lowballs" bid, while it's nice to have the work we're not looking to loose money on busy work either. We use plenty of 180 here as well.

Cons to the 480:
• Not available in 60"
• More Up front cost.
• Doesn't taste any better than 180.

 

[T_K]

I hope your business isn't doing so bad that you're having to eat the vinyl. Or do you just like trying new things?

 

[Behrmon]

I hope your business isn't doing so bad that you're having to eat the vinyl. Or do you just like trying new things?

Oh like you've never tasted it?