STREET SIGNS

[RICHARD SIMMONS]

Hello group. In the neighborhood where I live, they are asking me to make street signs. The ones they made are made of Alucobond (aluminum Composite Panel) but over time, they have started to bend (see attached photos) They are made with green reflective vinyl, white vinyl lettering and then transparent laminate. I would like if you could recommend me what type of material to use to avoid this. PVC, Aluminum sheet, galvanized metal sheet ?? The rest will be made same as they are now. (Reflective vinyl, white cut vinyl and laminated (??)Thanks in advance !!

 

[Jay Grooms]

.080 Aluminum

 

[Behrmon]

I would also say 080 Alum, maybe 060 as well.

 

[ChaseO]

Alucobond would have worked, but the glue is failing on those. .080 Aluminum for sure for the replacements.

 

[Billct2]

Yes, 080 or even .125, but some of those look like they are vandalized not defective. I would also delete the chain and have one heavy s hook to the tab on the arm, and close the hook.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

.125 and swap the chain for solid rod with a mounting bracket that saddles the material

 

[Z SIGNS]

I love pictures of sign carnage. I'll bet they looked exciting when the wind was blowing.
Nice posts to work with. Like others have said. Get rid of the chains. Use no s hook and bolt through the eyes on the arm.
.125" or bigger panel.

 

[signbrad]

.080" aluminum is the industry standard for street signs.
Also, chains allow unwanted sideways movement and contact with the post. Better to use a single link.

Brad in Kansas City

 

[ikarasu]

.080 as others have said.

But I question the process. Green reflective, white vinyl lettering and then overlam? so they put cut letters on and them overlaminate it? Thatd leave pretty big air gaps... and if it's green vinyl + white vinyl, why would you need overlam unless it's to make it anti graffiti or something? pre-colored vinyl isn't going to fade.


Those signs don't look reflective to me... it looks like it's just green printed on white vinyl, then laminated with a gloss... It's never a 100% guess with a photo, but I see more glossyness than reflectiveness in those photos...and I definitely don't see cut lettering.

If theyre official MOT street signs... with your equipment you pretty much have to go green reflective with white reflective cutout, and skip the overlam. If MOT spec isn't needed... print the green on white reflective, overlam it and call it a day. But I wouldn't try to overlam cut lettering. I still question whether the ones in the photo are even reflective though

 

[RICHARD SIMMONS]

Yes, 080 or even .125, but some of those look like they are vandalized not defective. I would also delete the chain and have one heavy s hook to the tab on the arm, and close the hook.

Hi ! When yoy say an S hook, do you mean this one ??

 

[Billct2]

yes

 

[signbrad]

Hi ! When yoy say an S hook, do you mean this one ??

I always stocked a box each of 1/4-inch and 3/16-inch diameter S-hooks in stainless steel. They are hard to find in stainless, so I ordered them.

One disadvantage of an S-hook is that it will sometimes allow thin material, like .040" or .063" aluminum, to find its way through the closure when the sign bounces around in the wind. It's important to squeeze the hooks closed as tightly as possible.

Or, a threaded chain link could be used instead of an S-hook. It yields a more positive hold if the nut is turned tight.

Brad in Kansas City

 

[RICHARD SIMMONS]

I always stocked a box each of 1/4-inch and 3/16-inch diameter S-hooks in stainless steel. They are hard to find in stainless, so I ordered them.

One disadvantage of an S-hook is that it will sometimes allow thin material, like .040" or .063" aluminum, to find its way through the closure when the sign bounces around in the wind. It's important to squeeze the hooks closed as tightly as possible.

Or, a threaded chain link could be used instead of an S-hook. It yields a more positive hold if the nut is turned tight.

Brad in Kansas City

What do you think about this one ? Of course I have to open the circle, put the plate in and then close. Then maybe open holes on the horizontal pole

 

[signbrad]

Try it.
I've never opened an eye bolt before, but it might work. Or put an S-hook between the eye bolt and the sign.

Brad

 

[RICHARD SIMMONS]

Try it.
I've never opened an eye bolt before, but it might work. Or put an S-hook between the eye bolt and the sign.

Brad

Thanks Brad ! Looking details of the photos, I see the is a piece of the chain welded to the horizontal pole, so I will use the "S" hooks from those to the plate. Less job !!