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Stripping Very Old Vinyl off

Lauren

New Member
Hi everyone. We are replacing some striping on a semi and running into issues with stripping the existing vinyl. It is metallic and very old. Any tips? We have tried heating it up, using RapidRemover, scraping it and at this rate just the hood is going to take at least 3 hours...too long! Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
 

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laserline

New Member
I'll second Pat's suggestion.
I've been using a wallpaper steamer for many old semi trailers.
Works like a dream.
 

Lauren

New Member
Thanks for the replies! Does it leave the adhesive residue behind or also take care of that?
 

SightLine

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I'll third it.... we recently got one too for some ancient utility trailers. I think the adhesive will depend on the vinyl and how you start pulling it. The decals on the trailer we recently did were far far worse. In a few places it left adhesive but surprisingly the steamer softened the vinyl up enough to remove mostly in tact with the adhesive with it.

We got the one from Lowes that was about $60.00 or so. Came with a big whatever you call it and a smaller one. I've found the smaller one easier to use on vinyl.
 

Mike Paul

Super Active Member
Heat for the film and Rapid Remover for the adhesive.
Your not pulling that vinyl up in that condition you have to plow it with a tool.

Heat gun, torch, steamer most shops use for heat. Hot water pressure washer is another option.

Charge by the hour for removal. $75- $125 per hour for removal is fair. Minimum $75. per hour even if your a home base one man shop.
 

Lauren

New Member
You guys are awesome! I REALLY appreciate all the input. Looking into a wallpaper steamer now!
 

slopoke

New Member
I'm curious if the wallpaper steamer worked for removing the adhesive? We are currently in the middle of removing 30 year old metallic gold stripes and adhesive off a car with metallic single stage paint, we used the 3m stripe remover which took off the top layer of vinyl but left the adhesive which now has hardened into a very dense plastic-like substance. So far the rapid remover hasn't done much and I'm really hesitant to use anything more aggressive since it is a single stage metallic paint.
 

SignManiac

New Member
On the wall paper steamers, can someone recommend a particular model or brand they are using and happy with? Or a link?

Thanks,
 

Mosh

New Member
If there is adhesive left behind simple use some 3M ADHESIVE REMOVER!!!!

I use a 3M stripe remover on my drill, works great.

3 hours, sounds about right, that is why at my shop removal is often 3 times what putting new on is....
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
On the wall paper steamers, can someone recommend a particular model or brand they are using and happy with? Or a link?

Thanks,


With all the talk about steamers, I gave in last year and got one. Wagner 915. j-915.jpg About $100.00 or so. It's alright, but it runs out of water about every 20 minutes, then you have to let it cool down. It only works in sections at a time according to the directions, and when we experimented, it didn't do squat. So, for something small, it might be Okay, but I'm still sold on the Zapper.
 

SightLine

║▌║█║▌│║▌║▌█
On the wall paper steamers, can someone recommend a particular model or brand they are using and happy with? Or a link?

Thanks,

With all the talk about steamers, I gave in last year and got one. Wagner 915. View attachment 92701 About $100.00 or so. It's alright, but it runs out of water about every 20 minutes, then you have to let it cool down. It only works in sections at a time according to the directions, and when we experimented, it didn't do squat. So, for something small, it might be Okay, but I'm still sold on the Zapper.



http://www.lowes.com/pd_40627-97-0282018_0__?productId=3033147

This one. it has a pretty big tank. Runs for over an hour before we have to refill it..... pretty dang cheap too.
 

eddesign

New Member
blitz

been stripping semi trailers and beer trucks for years and the steamer works real well we use a vaper blitz.Can strip whole side of beer truck before refilling
 

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Decal Removal

Ouch! Metallic silver or any metallic vinyl older than 7 years can be difficult. We get calls all the time for removal of these materials, upwards of 16 years old, from RV owners. Torches are out of the question! As with all vinyl, age and type are the most important factors in determining what process to use for removal. With very old (9+) metallic based vinyl’s we have found that chemical pressure blasting is the most cost effective solution. The chemical we have used with great success is a Orange gel paint remover(Citristrip Safer Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel)[ found at home depot] applied with a brush and left to dwell about 15 minutes, then pressure washed off, being careful to keep the pressure stream always in motion .
We have tried a multitude of other chemicals on vinyls with these characteristics with varied results. The trick is getting the vinyl off with the least amount of damage to the substrate. Citristrip has little affect on fiberglass, sheet and post trailers or most (ALWAYS TEST) factory painted substrates.

De-identification has changed over the last decade with the introduction of improved and sometimes not so improved vinyl products from manufactures. Many of the fleet managers we come in contact with are still using the old methods to remove vinyl; Heat Guns & Propane torches. Some have experimented with chemicals, heated pressure washers and even “miracle removers”. As in most fleet management processes, there is no secret, only knowledge and experience of applied Method-Manpower-Material solutions. The best solution is always applying the highest quality vinyl.

That being said, every vinyl has a "SWEET SPOT", or temperature [100f-315f], when the vinyl is at its optimum removal point. Every substrate has an "OVER TEMP" point where unacceptable damage occurs. Most commercial vehicle surfaces are safe under 375f. Cold storage equipment (reefers) and DuraPlate vans are highly susceptible to irreversible Delaminating when heated over 325f for extended periods. Sheet and post panels will bow/buckle in between rivet lines when heated past 375f. Optimum removal is best achieved with optimum climate control indoors. When removing outdoors, climate conditions impede the ability to maintain surface temperature. So, under uncontrollable climate conditions, the only thing that improves the task is controlling or MAINTAINING TEMPERATURE SOURCE. We utilize Steam Vapor for 95% of all our removal jobs. Most steam equipment maintains nozzle temp at 250f-315f depending on the quality of equipment. Using a plunger on the nozzle allows us to maintain surface temp in all climate conditions without ever reaching potentially damaging temp limits. How long we heat the surface depends on the "SWEET SPOT" of the material we are removing.

Adhesive residue [separation] that remains can sometimes be reduced or eliminated depending on age, type of material, SWEET SPOT and "direction of pull". Whatever the heat source, when removing vinyl remember that we are "stretching not peeling" the material off. In some cases, there is an opportunity cost in going for speed regardless of the separation. There are many "adhesive removers" out there and we prefer a dLimonene based product of TechGrade quality. Because the high volume of removal we perform I avoid any ether based products or removers with petroleum distillates due to their toxicity and environmental impact. We purchase our product by the drum. Gallon pricing is ridiculous when purchasing the comparable products available at our local sign supply store.
We spray the remover on with an industrial pump sprayer, then pressure wash off. Hand scraping is very labor intensive and inefficient on large scale removal jobs. Amount of product use varies depending on climate/temperature, type of adhesive, PSI (3500min-6500max [experienced tech]) and "direction of spray". I explain to my techs that adhesive is "sponge like" in its ability to hold or become saturated with remover. ALWAYS SPRAY REMOVER WHEN DRY. And pressure wash from bottom to top aiming spray down and away to avoid potentially washing away already treated areas. On a unit that has a solid sheet of residue, a follow up spot cleaning is most always necessary. Unfortunately, in this instance (complete wrap separation), obtaining a 100% residue surface is like cleaning white cat hair off a white sweater while still holding the cat. If a reinstall is the target, add additional time to prep the surface.

The magic combination is a matter of experimentation and quantifying service costs.
Contributing Factors:
o Precedence or Time Constraints; How quickly the unit/s need to be done to contain daily costs of units to remain in active inventory. Are the targeted units being sold, converted or returned to leasing entity?
o Age of Vinyl & Square footage; this is the most pivotal factor for determining the most efficient method for removal.
o Type of Vinyl
o Quantity & Location of Units

As for the preferred steam equipment, we utilize our Penta Steam Delivery System that allows a crew of 1-5 men the ability to work at the same time. In smaller removal jobs we have been using 110v Vapor Steamers since 1992. The Wallpaper Steamer mentioned earlier in this thread is an inexpensive unit in a pinch or introduction to "steam removal". This unit is very similar to the units on the market when we first starting utilizing steam. One of the postings mentioned the Vaporblitz model, these were the first commercial type units we ever used. The problem with those types of machines is that they are not "continuous" steamers. They need to be shut down/cooled to be refilled. And when doing more than 1.25 hrs of steam removal, not cost effective(20-25 minutes of downtime/reheat every 1.25 hrs over 8 hrs of use = 2 hrs lost work per man per day).

When deciding on the type of machine to purchase, a "continuous steamer" model is essential if planning to utitilize steam more than 20 man-hours per year. The extra cost will pay for itself after the first 10-20 hours depending on your choice. I have tried just about every vapor steamer on the market, and prefer the Vaporjet 2400 Professional. There are many other less expensive and more expensive units on the market, comparing longevity to replacement cost has given us a guide to optimum profit per hour costs. Whatever the choice, steam utilization will return the costs if you plan on including de-identification as a service your company offers.

My post may be a bit overstated, however, with new products being introduced (liquid lamanite, glossy Calandered, Reflective EZ, etc....), Steam will prove to be a profitable solution to emerging difficult removal jobs.

At your service,

Richard Clos
Operations Manager
Steam Slingers
Decal Removal Experts
313-231-1477
Taylor, MI.
 
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