It has dip switches inside the panel which adjust the capacitors. The easiest thing to do is call American rotary and they will walk you through adjustments until the power is balanced properly. Then he would obviously need to get the machine running and check them again. Here's where you adjust it, this panel burnt up last year, it's an adx20 but pretty much the same thingall 3 voltages should be the same, why is 1 15v higher?
there are probably "local voltage" jumpers to adjust the stepdown to your 115 or 220 control voltage.
full disclosure, i have NEVER TOUCHED an f1612 but have connected tons of 3 phase equipment.
there is normally a multitap to move and adjust the voltage coming out (208, 220, 240, etc)
you may be tripping an over voltage protect of some sort
You still need to get the high leg closer to 230/240.Moved some wires and now we are getting these updated power specs.
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Here is a photo of the jumpers on the machine. I also forgot to mention this machine was hooked up as 208+N from the original owner.
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Are any of the 4 emergency stop buttons pressed in? It's not always obvious, give them a twistOkay. So, we moved the top jumper on the photo above. Everything has powered on and it’s working. It’s now showing up in Axis control but I am getting a emergency button error.
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Are any of the 4 emergency stop buttons pressed in? It's not always obvious, give them a twist
Hmmm, can you post a picture of the error message?We have press and depressed all four buttons a few times
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Hmmm, can you post a picture of the error message?
Hmmm, if the buttons aren't pressed, I would guess one of the buttons is broken and stuck down.
I'm not sure to be honest.Is there a way to by pass a button to test?
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Multimeter on hand and time to check the safety system.
Wouldn't that be a bad way to run a switch, potentially dangerous? If there's 120 on it, I don't see how it would work without the neutral. Maybe it has something to do with you switching from 208 to 230. Now that I'm thinking about it, I thought 230/460 requires a transformer to get 120 where as 208 does not. I don't feel like reading up on it but your answers potentially here:Someone mentioned earlier, the neutral wire as well as a redundant ground.
The lavk of a neutral connection, if applicable, may look just like an emergency stop condition on a properly wired machine. The neutral is probably lifted when you trigger an emergency stop
Actually 3 hots, if you look at the sine wave, they alternate high & low, 60 times per secondWouldn't that be a bad way to run a switch, potentially dangerous? If there's 120 on it, I don't see how it would work without the neutral. Maybe it has something to do with you switching from 208 to 230. I don't feel like reading up on it but your answers potentially here:
High-leg delta - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
Yeah, I get 3 phase. That plug has 3 hots and a ground, 208 uses the high leg for the return/neutral correct? Which is why you can pull 120 off of 1 leg. On 230/460 it's all equal like 240 1 phase where you don't need a neutral unless you want to pull 120 off of it, like an RV plug which has 4 prongs but a welder plug has 3 because there's no need for a neutral.Actually 3 hots, if you look at the sine wave, they alternate high & low, 60 times per second
The phase difference is the important part. This is why you can reverse a 3 phase motor by switching ANY of the 2 "hots". Also why it starts under tremendous load without a start capacitor (and why it can restart without time delay, no waiting for a thermal switch to cool off)