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Take-up Reel = crap
- Thread starter ucmj22
- Start date
mark in tx
New Member
Never had that problem,
once the print is about 3-4 inches past the take-up tube, I pause the machine, then pull the print tight around the tube, put a piece of tape in the middle, then the 2 sides, then un-pause and then hand tension the bar until the machine takes over.
I always think of it as being similar to webbing up the laminator.
once the print is about 3-4 inches past the take-up tube, I pause the machine, then pull the print tight around the tube, put a piece of tape in the middle, then the 2 sides, then un-pause and then hand tension the bar until the machine takes over.
I always think of it as being similar to webbing up the laminator.
ucmj22
New Member
I do the same. The problem is that there is nothing except that one hand bolt to keep it straight. It has so much play from front to rear if I dont have it perfectly straight when I tighten it down, it causes the media to creep one way or the other on the take up reel. ayone else had this problem?
Graphics2u
New Member
The take up on my Mutoh ValueJet does exactly the same thing! I've tried following the Videos mutoh has for lining it up and it appears as though it's lined up correctly but still gives problems. The old style with the elctronic eye worked SO MUCH Better! I notice more of problem when running 30"-36" media, it's like the bar that keeps tension and activates the switch pulls it more one way or the other because the media is not centered on it like it is when running a full 54" roll. Sorry I don't have much solutions for you except that I have noticed it might be a little better if you let the tension bar all the way down and then try to Feed the media around it and attach it to the take up. (Hope that made sense.)
ucmj22
New Member
reel pic
I havent see the Mutoh take up, but what causes it on my roland is that the right side where the take up motor is, is solid and stationary, while the adjustable side is this flimsy bracket that no matter how tight you make the bolt, it will still move. Especially while you are trying to tape the media to it. Here is a pic to show the weak bracket.
I havent see the Mutoh take up, but what causes it on my roland is that the right side where the take up motor is, is solid and stationary, while the adjustable side is this flimsy bracket that no matter how tight you make the bolt, it will still move. Especially while you are trying to tape the media to it. Here is a pic to show the weak bracket.
Attachments
i think we have the same take up reel on the VP540, what i've learned is if you dont tape it EXACTLY straight the vinyl will take up mcrooked and go off line. We do 14' panels all day not to mention the whole side of a box truck in one shot (all panels ripped and print from one command) and always get a pretty good take up ( once in a while it goes slightly off but never enough to stop the print). Try postioning your vinyl differently on the back rollers maybe your favoring one side too much? (just a suggestion) Good Luck
ucmj22
New Member
I wish I could attribute the fault to myself, trust me I've tried; however, it doesn't matter how I tape it if the left side of the take up reel is able to rock back and forth while i'm taping it. I thought I had it somewhat under control by jamming a piece of coroplast between the bracket and the rail, but that only works for a couple of days or so before the coroplast is too flattened to keep the bracket from wobbling. but it sounds like this is a me issue since no one else is really having it. thanks for the help.
ucmj22
New Member
thats what is happening here. When I see the slack on one side or the other before going over the dancer roller, I know its time to step in and and jerk with it to get it straight. usually by pushing or pulling the bottom of the 'left side bracket' forward or to the rear it will start going straight. I am certain however that if I call roland tech they will tell me I taped it wrong. I get it, if I was them, I wouldn't say "yeah we put a 50 cent bracket on there and dont plan on fixing it soooo just tape it seven ways from sunday till it goes straight." We do alot of concession trailer wraps so we do a lot of long runs and this has been a constant issue. It cost us a ton of money when we did a huge banner order for the KY Derby and I left it printing after I left at night. take up went crooked and the head was hitting where the bulges were created putting diagonal lines across 4 10ft pantone matched, high density banners. I no longer leave it unattended.
Mainframe
New Member
If sticking a piece of coroplast in between a bracket will temporarily solve your problem, then you have you have in fact diagnosed the problem & figured out a repair. Why don't you use a more substantial shim, like a piece of lexan or even a piece of aluminum, I would also suggest a couple of strategically placed drill screws for a more permanent repair.
ZsVinylInc
New Member
Ok so to be upfront I don't have a take up system at all but thought I would try and lend some advice on a possible solution I see for this problem for everyone. First off it appears that the screw in that bracket just tightens against the tube it rides / sits on. Is this correct? If so what I would do if most of the material I run is 30" and 54" is figure out what the length of the cores are on average and put on in the machine first the 54". Once that bracket is tightened in the spot it needs to be I would drill two holes in the tube and threw the back of the bracket. One in the right hole and one in the left hole. Then I would remove the bracket and make a spacer to fill the gap between the bracket and the tube and permanently attach it to the inside of the bracket. I would then get two thumb screws and wing nuts. Put the bracket back on line up the hole, put the screws and wing nuts on and there you go. Then I would do the same thing for the 30". Not an expensive solution just some time and a few screws. Let me know if that helps anyone. Just giving some advice as to how I would do it.
Big Z.
Big Z.
ZsVinylInc
New Member
Mainframe it appears you and I were on the same wave length here. You just got it out sooner.
ucmj22
New Member
well, I tried a piece of signabond lite, and it was just a hair too thick to slide in to the gap. my only other option would be to get some synthetic door shims and use those. The only problem with this shimming fix is that the shims fall out, and have to be put back in to place every time I put a roll on or off. I guess I was hoping someone had a genius fix that they discovered. What irritates me more than anything is that I have to jam a 10 cent shim in to a $30k machine for it to work properly, but i guess im just ranting now, so thanks for the help.
ucmj22
New Member
hmmmm....
there's some genius, i'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes. sounds like it would fix the shifting issue, but make changing the take up roll a bit more of a task. But you cant have everything.
there's some genius, i'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes. sounds like it would fix the shifting issue, but make changing the take up roll a bit more of a task. But you cant have everything.
ZsVinylInc
New Member
Here is what I would suggest first. try this out at like a 36" or 48" core size. That way if it doesn't work then you will not be screwed with holes at your 30 and 54" areas that you can't use and end up give you problems.
visualeyez
New Member
Man, I really need to post up some pics of the manual take-up real I made from the plywood box a gemini cast bronze plaque was shipped in... No joke, use it every day.