I'm new to gilding and am doing a (genuine) silver leaf project on a vehicle. What kind of topcoat do I use for exterior applications? Do I apply topcoat before or after outlining (using 1shot lettering enamels)? And if I want to paint over (add shadow or highlights to) the silverleaf...do it before or after topcoating with sealer?
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Topcoat for silverleaf?
- Thread starter Blondie
- Start date
Billct2
Active Member
There are several options for topcoating, 1shot clear, Marine Clear and Automotive Clear are three possibilities. Depending on the project , you can do all the work then topcoat or you could do the leaf, top coat and then add the paint, which could also be topcoated, or another coat over the whole thing.
This is one of those projects that I would do a test piece first. I don't do these often enough to be sure everything is compatible anymore, products keep getting changed.
Another resource would br Mike Jackson's hand lettering forum.
This is one of those projects that I would do a test piece first. I don't do these often enough to be sure everything is compatible anymore, products keep getting changed.
Another resource would br Mike Jackson's hand lettering forum.
Thank you for the reply! I need a clear that can be brushed on as this is being lettered, with lots of scrollwork. I've already done some test samples. 1 Shot Super Gloss Tinting Clear is yellow...right out of the can (soooo glad I tested). I also have Rolco Acrylic Topcoat (crystal clear) but don't know if it's appropriate for exterior applications, or if it's compatible with lettering enamels.
Forum Studio
New Member
Don't use silver .Silver will oxidize.Best options are: palladium or aluminium.
SignosaurusRex
Active Member
I've only used real silver leaf a few times, So I don't think that I am qualified to make any suggestions as to what to topcoat the silver with. The few times that I have used real silver, It eventually tarnished in short order despite the clear coat. For that reason I typically use Aluminum leaf or Palladium/white Gold. I think the person (Signs101 member) that can really give you the in's & out's of silver leaf and avoiding tarnish may be JDB.
Mike Paul
Super Active Member
This ^ or you will be replacing tarnished silver in the near future...
Si Allen
New Member
Since you are new at gilding a few bits of advice :
1. Do NOT use silver leaf ... it will tarnish, no matter what you use to top coat it !
2. Have patience! There is no such thing as a quick gilding job.
3. Put a drop or two of white enamel in the size ( Yellow for gold leaf) ... so you can see where you missed.
4. do not gob the size on heavy ... the thinner the better.
5. Paint a test patch near where you are going to letter ... and wait until it "squeeks" before laying on the leaf! ... dragging your knuckle very lightly across the patch will make a squeeking sound. ( You can wash the patch off when you are done with a little bit of solvent when you are done. )
If you apply the leaf too soon, it will soak into the size and look like crap ... meaning you have to clean it all off and start over. If you wait too long... the leaf will not stick.
An excellent book on gilding written many years ago by LeBlanc and updated by Kent Smith is available from SignCraft magazine.
Good luck with your project .. if you have any questions, feel free to ask me by PM or email.
1. Do NOT use silver leaf ... it will tarnish, no matter what you use to top coat it !
2. Have patience! There is no such thing as a quick gilding job.
3. Put a drop or two of white enamel in the size ( Yellow for gold leaf) ... so you can see where you missed.
4. do not gob the size on heavy ... the thinner the better.
5. Paint a test patch near where you are going to letter ... and wait until it "squeeks" before laying on the leaf! ... dragging your knuckle very lightly across the patch will make a squeeking sound. ( You can wash the patch off when you are done with a little bit of solvent when you are done. )
If you apply the leaf too soon, it will soak into the size and look like crap ... meaning you have to clean it all off and start over. If you wait too long... the leaf will not stick.
An excellent book on gilding written many years ago by LeBlanc and updated by Kent Smith is available from SignCraft magazine.
Good luck with your project .. if you have any questions, feel free to ask me by PM or email.
SignosaurusRex
Active Member
Sorry SI, I had a momentary Brain Far*.