So the technique here is to get a small, fine tipped screw driver that is flathead only. A normal, house repair version of a screw driver has a shaft that is too thick and the head is too wide to fit in the small channel. I used a 1/8" x 2.5" craftsman screw driver, made for repairing smaller items.
With the old captop installed, you'll notice you can push up and down on the captop, there are 2 springs under the captop allowing this springing to happen.
To get your bearings of the captop area, and while having really good light on the area, push the captop up and down. While looking directly in front of the captop, an inch or so below the rubber portion and behind the silver edge of the capping station, you'll see it clicks into a little clip in area on the capping station, it's like a 1/8" black bar, and there is a hook on the bottom of this bar that has to be released to get the captop out. By releasing this hook, the captop can lift off.
Above the clip-in bar area, it's a very small flat portion, a flexible tab, that you'll want to push down on the captop slightly with one hand (this releases the hook on the bar), while pushing on the flat front portion on the captop above the bar, then as you have pressure on the tab with your screwdriver, pull upwards slightly on the captop itself. So essentially what you're doing is you're pushing the tab backwards (away from hooking into the machine) as your pushing the captop down, and then by pulling up while having pressure on the tab, you're releasing the hook from catching again under the spring pressure that are under the cap tops. The front of the captop is now lifted, so take some fine tipped pliers and remove the springs that you can reach, there are 2, you don't want to lose these and they go on either way when you put them back.
The back will now be hooked in on the captop, do the same thing on the rear (blindly) pushing on the same flat portion as you did in the front, with some upward pressure, the captop will release.
Put the 2 springs back into place for each captop. With the new OEM captops, they come with a long hose and the instructions say to trim them, instead of this, I removed the factory, untrimmed long tube from the new captop, and then hooked the new captop into the existing tube in the printer, basically I skipped the step of replacing the tube. I left the Y Portion on the new captop, and hooked that little nippe into the existing hose. It takes a decent amount of wiggling to get the hose off of the new captop, but it's possible. I set the new parts that came with the new captop to the side if I need them later.
