Smoke_Jaguar
Man who touches printers inappropriately.
Roll your clock back if chips are expired under the #ADJUST menu. Take your flush and fill each bottle tank to the lower inner lip where the bottle would seal so the floats see the ink as being 'full' by pouring it in slowly. This avoids cross-contaminating your flush with different colors. From there, run a #ADJUST>Subtank>Fill Up Ink and Discharge Ink on each head set alternating a few times until you run through your old ink in the system. Make sure to top off the flush as you go, let the flush sit in the heads/lines overnight. Also a good time to scrub down the underside of the print carriage. If you see ink build up, clean with maintenance fluid (#15/16 usually). Avoid touching the nozzles, but you can safely wipe them down with a wetted down silicone wiper blade if you have one from another printer (newer UJF6042MKII printers use a suction nozzle instead of the older wiper style).
After soaking, remove the cover behind the bottle station as well as the panel just below it. Once you expose the ink valves (10 of them, 8 for each channel, plus 2 more for white recirculation), unclip the line from underneath the grey valve. Take a waste container, put it under where the line was disconnected and push in the valve assembly to drain the ink tank. If changing ink, keep pouring in flush until it runs clear. Now, if doing primer, there is a risk of clogging lines. With the top bottle tank flushed, add even more flush, discharge the subtanks a few times to make sure the lines and subtanks get out all the ink. If you want to check how the cleaning is going, remove the waste tank, empty it, stuff a paper towel in the neck and reinstall. Take the bottle out and look at the paper towel to see how dark the waste liquid coloration is. You want it to be as close to clear as possible.
If reusing the bottle-caps you can flush them by pouring in flush and in and pressing in the button to make it pour out the bottom. Or take an old ink bottle, flush out with isopropyl alcohol and pour in flush to shake down well and press in the button to discharge the now dirty alcohol. Once that's good, install the ink, manually drain the bottle tank by the valve and install your ink.
Reconnect all lines, then do a subtank discharge and fill, twice if you want to go crazy. From here, do a few nozzle checks to see if the ink is flowing properly. Should be good to button up the machine. Next you'll have to do a full reset on ink type (or adjust parameters) to have a PrClrCMYKWW set instead of LCLMCMYKWW set.
If you want to do a primer conversion fully proper, you'll need new lines, new caps, new subtank for the #1 head. However, the parts add up. These printers are typically configured on setup and run their chosen ink set for their lifespan.
When converting to primer, ORDER A NEW CAPPING STATION and LF-200 primer maintenance fluid to use only on the primer channel! Ink + Primer = massive clogs.
If you just want to add a clear channel, I suggest skipping the primer entirely and just running 2 clears (with a permanent primer chip) and just flip between using the primer channel and clear channel between jobs. Not great but saves you from frequent head replacements.
After soaking, remove the cover behind the bottle station as well as the panel just below it. Once you expose the ink valves (10 of them, 8 for each channel, plus 2 more for white recirculation), unclip the line from underneath the grey valve. Take a waste container, put it under where the line was disconnected and push in the valve assembly to drain the ink tank. If changing ink, keep pouring in flush until it runs clear. Now, if doing primer, there is a risk of clogging lines. With the top bottle tank flushed, add even more flush, discharge the subtanks a few times to make sure the lines and subtanks get out all the ink. If you want to check how the cleaning is going, remove the waste tank, empty it, stuff a paper towel in the neck and reinstall. Take the bottle out and look at the paper towel to see how dark the waste liquid coloration is. You want it to be as close to clear as possible.
If reusing the bottle-caps you can flush them by pouring in flush and in and pressing in the button to make it pour out the bottom. Or take an old ink bottle, flush out with isopropyl alcohol and pour in flush to shake down well and press in the button to discharge the now dirty alcohol. Once that's good, install the ink, manually drain the bottle tank by the valve and install your ink.
Reconnect all lines, then do a subtank discharge and fill, twice if you want to go crazy. From here, do a few nozzle checks to see if the ink is flowing properly. Should be good to button up the machine. Next you'll have to do a full reset on ink type (or adjust parameters) to have a PrClrCMYKWW set instead of LCLMCMYKWW set.
If you want to do a primer conversion fully proper, you'll need new lines, new caps, new subtank for the #1 head. However, the parts add up. These printers are typically configured on setup and run their chosen ink set for their lifespan.
When converting to primer, ORDER A NEW CAPPING STATION and LF-200 primer maintenance fluid to use only on the primer channel! Ink + Primer = massive clogs.
If you just want to add a clear channel, I suggest skipping the primer entirely and just running 2 clears (with a permanent primer chip) and just flip between using the primer channel and clear channel between jobs. Not great but saves you from frequent head replacements.