Using metal shear to cut dibond and maxmetal

[Stan B]

we are trying with 3mm thick

 

[njshorts]

we are trying with 3mm thick

hmm, same stuff... just a quick score, push the cutoff section down to a 45 degree angle, flip the board and push/snap.

 

[petrosgraphics]

as i stated before we have had no problems using a kick shear.... i can shear .063

alum with out a problem. i cut a lot of dibond with it...... no sharp edges.....

 

[thewood]

We use a stomp shear very similar to the one Mark Adams posted. It works great on corrugated plastic, pvc, up to .125 aluminum, dibond, cardboard, Alumalite, etc. It leaves a nice edge that rarely requires any type of finishing.

 

[kamuk777]

we used to cut on a metal shear.. but we bought the STEELTRAK from Keencut.
Love it .. it cuts all our materials - like Dibound, 040 aluminum, PVC and glass.
It's easy and fast..
and if you got one - buy the V-cutter, it works really well

 

[S'N'S]

If I was to buy another Guillotine (shear) I would buy one that would take at least a 8' sheet .... the amount of times I needed to sheer a bit off the full length of a sheet, the 4' just doesn't cut it:ROFLMAO:

 

[threeputt]

Stan, we've been struggling with this same issue for years. We often have orders of 40-50 small signs which we do using the 3mm DiBond panel. A lot of orders for 10"x14", 12"x18" etc.

We have both a nice table saw and also a panel saw. Use the table saw for this chore mostly.

But still, the prep guy has to spend considerable time with a flat file. And that means flipping the small signs over after making a pass or two on each edge.

I'd like to cut down on that part of the operation.

I once posted a similar question to yours about a stomp shear. I've taken samples of 3mm and 4mm to a sheet metal shop, but their shear didn't perform. (I'd like an edge that needs no further "treatment")

 

[jfiscus]

At our shop we cut with the table saw or score/cut the small pieces with a utility knife. We've taken larger sheets to a local metal shop to have the long edge sheared off 10' sections & the edge comes out factory perfect.

Sorry I can't help the OP though.

 

[Stan B]

Thank you guys,

the last 2 posts (#27 & 28) provide totally different results... I wonder if it may be due to differences in types (manual, air, hydraulic) or gauges (12, 14, 16) of the shears tested?

 

[Just Another Sign Guy]

Stan I have seen VERY HIGH END sheers that the cuts look exactly as if they are from the factory (even with composite sheets, where the pvc or other interior substrate) is not squished. However, I would still really recommend routing it, you have the room now that you could wall off a section and sweep out the back of the shop, introducing no dust or debris into your production faciility. There are MANY advantages to this setup. let me know if you'd like to discuss it further but in my opinion and everyone else who does HIGH volume contour cutting wiht a variety of ridgid substrates there is no other way...unless you are going to make square signs only.

 

[artbot]

@S'N'S i hear you about the 52" limit with a basic shear. for the long cuts, i just use my festool track saw (the tracks can be joined together i have a 54" and an 80"). 8' shears a monsters and rarely built for light gauge trimming. the track saw is the perfect solution for taking off a damaged 1/16"+ of an edge that is 120" long, etc.