Using Router for Braille

[The Dotted Line]

Hi Folks,

Is anyone out there doing braille on their router? We almost always farm out for California Grade 2 braille, which I've been told by our new router operator can be done in house on our Gerber Sabre 408. We are currently using Artpath, but about to move to EnRoute Plus. As we also run Flexi for vinyl production, I've been told that we can buy a braille option (Duxbury Braille) that runs in Flexi 8, and then we can send directly to EnRoute.

I can imagine the workflow would be to gang up the perimeter shapes, with braille included, drill the holes for the round braille beads, change bits and cut the perimeters. Then possibly while we are routing the tactile, punch the braille beads into the holes?

Just curious if anyone is doing this efficiently with similar equipment? Thank you in advance for any replies! I appreciate the advice!

James

 

[Westcoast Sign Guy]

I'm doing it on my 4x8 shopbot. Profiling my substrates & tactile then drilling the rasterbraille. 3 bit changes

 

[The Dotted Line]

Thanks Westcoast

We usually send all this stuff out, but if it can be done in house, all the better. Glad to hear someone is doing it and having success. From what I know you must have a program to set the braille correctly, hence the investment into the Flexi 8 option for Duxbury Braille.

I just wanted to find out if such small delicate work is efficiently done on a large router. I appreciate the note. Thank you!

James

 

[Westcoast Sign Guy]

I know quite a few people who use the router. You just have to resurface your spoilboard before and make sure your z is accurate. In the future as I get into more ADA i'll probably get a small engraver for the tactile and braille.

But for now, I'm good!

 

[Rick]

I've never had any luck using the whole table since the tolerance for drilling for the raster beads is so tight. I pre-cut the blanks using a router table. Then make a score line on the sacrificial peice for the size sign I was doing, then do the signs one at a time, one blade at a time usually the braille first then the tactile. I usually did 20 signs at a time, that way I could keep track of them and insert raster beads while the tactile was being cut.

 

[The Dotted Line]

Thank you Westcoast and Rick. I can see how the Z axis would have to be extremely accurate, and realize the Grade 2 braille bead must be 1/40" above the surface. As soon as we get our ducks in a row, we'll give it a shot.

I appreciate the insight! Thanks again!

James

 

[Westcoast Sign Guy]

Like rick was saying. The best accuracy I've been able to get was doing a section of four at a time and profiling a small section of your spoilboard, like .015 or so the replacing your plaques on those sections.

Good Luck!