UV Primer tips and tricks?

[artifacture]

We have a new Mimaki JFX200-2513EX with LUS-150 inks (clear is LUS-100).

We're struggling to learn the process of properly using primer. We primarily print on acrylic, but sometimes on anodized aluminum.

For acrylic we selected the Mimaki GM-1 as a test chart at Mimaki during our demo found that caused no damage to the surface compared to others. It is apparently one of the few with no smell as well. This doesn't seem to achieve the level of adhesion I would expect.

For the metal, we have been using one labeled VF from the ITNH primer sample set we got. It seemed to perform the best of the metal ones in the kit, but ink chipped when shearing the printed metal, so we changed to pre-cutting it. But then where the ink bled off the plate onto the jig, it pulled ink off just lifting the plates up. So we're clearly doing something wrong.

Application is our biggest challenge though. We've been cleaning the surface with Windex before priming. We were told to just wipe it on and buff it lightly. But often times it looks streaky and attempting to wipe it further make it worse. I looked on YouTube and everything I saw there says to wipe across the sheet in one direction only, and let it dry. One video showed using one of those foam/fabric corner painting tools that they stored in a plastic box between uses.

Can anyone share the tricks they've learned for this?

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Never had good luck with Mimaki's PR-200 on metal. I tend to use an etching primer or media blast some texture for good grip. Cleaning the surface with ethyl acetate, acetone or other strong low-residue solvents works too. Stuff like Windex has surfactants that can cause some major issues with adhesion in my experience. As for direction of wiping, not sure what that has to do with much, just use lint-free wipes and stuff that evaporates clean.

 

[artifacture]

PR-200 is the primer it can print onto material. I didn't get that, preferring to have 2 white and 2 clear channels. I said GL-1 but it's apparently GM-1 that I have. It says it's for metal and glass, but the picture I posted is the acrylic test sample I saw at Mimaki and it seemed to work well.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Seen some good results with Natron UV primer, but never used it myself. Basically a brush-on product. Might be able to get samples.

 

[TEN]

Don't use windex, it can inhibit adhesion. Clean with Isopropal, we have had sucess with 409 as a cleaner for plastics such as corrugated plastic and acrylic, for metal try Bohle Metal Adhesion Promoter Product # BO 5209488 (3.5 Fl. Oz.) or BO 5209489 (35.27 Fl. Oz.) Bohle www.portalshardware.com or www.dkhardware.com Use for Glass, Ceramic, Stainless Steel, Coated Metal, Uncoated Metal Note: This promoter dries fast, be careful not to over apply. Over application only wastes the promoter and will not further increase adhesion.

 

[Skooter]

We never use Windex when cleaning or prepping any substrate before printing or applying vinyl to it. We have always used denatured alcohol to wipe it down. Isopropyl is mentioned in a previous post. I'm currios as to what most people use and why you might use isopropyl instead of denatured alcohol.

 

[Bxtr]

We use denatured for cleaning most substrates as well.

 

[DL Signs]

We never use Windex when cleaning or prepping any substrate before printing or applying vinyl to it. We have always used denatured alcohol to wipe it down. Isopropyl is mentioned in a previous post. I'm currios as to what most people use and why you might use isopropyl instead of denatured alcohol.

Don't know if this will help with a primer issue, but.

Iso has no inert ingredients other than distilled water, 100% Iso doesn't even have that, so it leaves nothing on the surface. Best practice is to wipe it wet to loosen contaminates, followed by a dry towel, wiping till it's dry, that way anything it saturates on the surface isn't allowed to stay while it's evaporating. This is true for any cleaning chemical.

Denatured is also very clean, and suitable, but has inert ingredients that can be left on the surface, very minimal, but... It's basically grain alcohol like Everclear that has additives to make it poisonous if you drink it. It's good for removing heavier contamination or adhesives, but not as cost effective as iso. Acetone is also very clean, but it's a hotter chemical that can damage certain finishes, really good for metals, but not a safe chemical to use daily. All have their place, but overall, the iso is the best, it's the cleanest, safest, and most cost effective.

Windex has surficants (like soap) that can be left behind after use and cause issues. With contaminates, the two basic types are water soluble (conventional dirt & grime that solvents don't penetrate), and solvent soluble (oils, grease that water won't penetrate). 80-90% iso has water, which makes it work better than say 100% iso, but not always super effective on heavy water soluble contaminates. Best of both worlds? Windex is good to pre-clean before iso, because it will remove water soluble contaminates that alcohol won't, not something you'd want to waste that much time doing on everything, but it's a good process for really problematic substrates. Overall, windex shouldn't really be relied on as a sole means of cleaning.

 

[Adam Vreeke]

We use P2 primer for metal (we get from ITNH) and works great. When shearing after print, if it is full bleed, you will always get chipping, even if baked and cured for 24 hours. Never had a problem with this doing full bleed and pulling the ink off. Basically put the primer on a lint free cloth, apply and let evaporate. Never had to pre clean the metal either, but use isopropyl alcohol as others have mentioned. Also there should be no shame in telling customers you need a metal border to avoid chipping.

 

[artifacture]

Don't know if this will help with a primer issue, but.

Very informative! Thank you.

 

[JBurton]

Unrelated, but shouldn't bass notes in this case be spelled like 'bass' instead of 'base', I mean, just to go along with the 'tones'.