UV printing on wood - white underbase suggestions?

I've done plenty of these projects. I am using a Stratojet EFB2512 that does not take long to print and I don't have any problems and white stays white. If you're using a plywood, you need to have more layers of white. Painting it may work depending on the paint you use. Try using primer paint or an option of another machine. Up to you.

 

Depending on how accurate you need your colors to be, you'd probably need to make a profile for that particular white paint also.

 

Use a paint similar to One Shot Oil based enamel. That is how pre painted wood substrates comes from suppliers.

 

How 'bout a clue as to what kinda plywood you are using ?? 1/2" isn't really enough information.

Regardless, to do it correctly, you're gonna need at least one coat primer and two top coats. That's about 2 days worth of painting. Most primers you can put a top coat on within 4 to 6 hours, let the top coat dry overnight and the next morning, scare up the paint with some 400 paper, tack and coat your second coat. The next day, you should be ready to print. However, if the wood is completely unpainted, you'll need to paint the back side, to keep the tension somewhat even, so you don't have any warping/bowing.

 

What I have done for the printed is used a pre satin wood conditioner and everything comes out great. I have used the one shot enamel paint as an underbase. Just have to make sure the paint is really dry before printing.

 

With that kinda wood, you need a sealer. Perhaps 2 coats are needed. (you can get a sealant/primer one step, but I wouldn't recommend that) Then, a primer or two, followed with two top coats. Your time invested now, will be about a week for the process. Why not use MDO wood. It's great for outdoors, not many voids and you can buy it plain, primed or fully painted. However, the fully painted still need attention along the edges. One day could finish that kinda plywood. Plus, it's probably costs less. Properly done, it can last up to 15 years. Oh, and the top coat paint is called 1Shot bulletin, which is less than the lettering 1Shot.

 

I usually stay away from home depot or Lowe's plywood. When laser cutting we found it to be very inconsistent in the adhesive in the wood. I buy my wood from lumber company's that I have available locally. I personally would stay with the one shot. The paint from Home depot should work. (I prefer to try for the best finished quality finished product even if I have to give up a little profit.)

 

Glantz, Harbor and probably many others. MDO stands for Medium Density Overlay. 1/2" complete painted sheet is around $75, I think.

According to what your application is..... I have no idea if the other stuff will be a good choice. Just because something won't rot, does not make it a good choice. We use the pvc's and other plastics for interior use.

 

I found Summit racing had the best price on the one shot paint in my area

 

That's a little high, but Harbor sells it for $81. a sheet. Be sure it is painted and not just primed. More and more places are no longer carrying fully painted.

Here's another thought...... If you attach a 1/2" PVC sheet to wood or whatever..... you will have 2 entirely different expansion and contraction rates going on and based upon your location, you could get quite a bit or warping/bowing from PVC. ​