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Vinyl mounted to masonite?
- Thread starter jmcnicoll
- Start date
Pat Whatley
New Member
OP....you're living in the past. TEMPERED hardboard does get a minimal coating of oil but it's burned off in the tempering process.
Make sure it's tempered and you won't have a problem. If you're really worried about it get the white tile board instead, it's only a couple of bucks more and it accepts prints beautifully.
Make sure it's tempered and you won't have a problem. If you're really worried about it get the white tile board instead, it's only a couple of bucks more and it accepts prints beautifully.
OldPaint
New Member
In the most commonly accepted “tempering” process, both surfaces of the hardboard are
flooded with a drying oil shortly after emerging from the hot-press. Linseed oil is most commonly
used. Excess oil is squeezed off and the board is then heat treated in a circulating hot-air
oven for several hours to cure the oil. The oil does not saturate the board. It only penetrates a
little way below the surface.
Tempering gives a harder, more paintable surface, greater strenth and more
resistance to liquid water.
AS I ALSO make pottery on a wheel, i have round MASONITE boards......we call em "bats." and these are subjected to a lot water when making pottery of the wheel. also whe you cut the clay from the "bat" the OIL in the board......makes the pottery piece slide smoothly and keeps the water out.
flooded with a drying oil shortly after emerging from the hot-press. Linseed oil is most commonly
used. Excess oil is squeezed off and the board is then heat treated in a circulating hot-air
oven for several hours to cure the oil. The oil does not saturate the board. It only penetrates a
little way below the surface.
Tempering gives a harder, more paintable surface, greater strenth and more
resistance to liquid water.
AS I ALSO make pottery on a wheel, i have round MASONITE boards......we call em "bats." and these are subjected to a lot water when making pottery of the wheel. also whe you cut the clay from the "bat" the OIL in the board......makes the pottery piece slide smoothly and keeps the water out.
Pat Whatley
New Member
3/4" plywood with a masonite covering? You sure that's not MDO plywood? MDO will need to be edge sealed, primed, and painted.
TyrantDesigner
Art! Hot and fresh.
As someone else said, whiteboard (which is just masonite with a white plastic laminate surface) it probably your best bet ... I wouldn't use it outside as it's one of those materials that won't survive extreme temps, moisture or other harsh enviroment conditions. I wouldn't use masonite unless you prime and paint it like any other absorbative surface (like wood or mdo for example) ... Inside it's fine. Cintra, Acrylic and even Polypropelene (if you can find it thick enough) is better for vinyl because the finish comes out nicer. ... otherwise, any use should be fine as long as you use a perm vinyl and seal the edges of the print to prevent lifting.
Though ... I don't know why a sign would need a 3/4 inch ply backer that has a laminated masonite top if the end goal is interior signage. The same thing can be accomplished with frame that is edge routed clean and flush with the masonite after glueing and brads with the added bonus of being light weight ... which is the primary reason to use masonite ... inside it's strong and thin and the reason you can use it in place of drywall.
Though ... I don't know why a sign would need a 3/4 inch ply backer that has a laminated masonite top if the end goal is interior signage. The same thing can be accomplished with frame that is edge routed clean and flush with the masonite after glueing and brads with the added bonus of being light weight ... which is the primary reason to use masonite ... inside it's strong and thin and the reason you can use it in place of drywall.
Pat Whatley
New Member
Still sounds like MDO.
Biker Scout
New Member
Just Don't! Please... for the love of industry standards!!!
Biker Scout
New Member
It will curl right off the edges. If it's "just an inside sign" there are many other options that I can think of that would be more suited. If you are dying to use home depot grade boards, then shower board would do the trick in a pinch. Just wipe the surface with denatured alcohol before vinyl application. If you can, place trim around edges. That would polish it off nicely.
Gino
Premium Subscriber
Ya know, if it was specked out by the customer, why don't you read the spec sheet and find out what instructions are needed to be followed doing what you want to do ??
It's kinda hard for anyone here..... to give you adequate advice, when YOU don't have a clue as to what you're using.
It's kinda hard for anyone here..... to give you adequate advice, when YOU don't have a clue as to what you're using.
If it's any wood or papered finish plywood or otherwise, it's gonna need to be either sealed and cleared or painted in order for adhesive backed vinyl to have a chance..... indoors or out. 