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Vinyl wallpaper peeling off

So I applied vinyl wallpaper on low VOC painted wall (apparently). Within two weeks the whole thing wanted to just fall off, I squeegeed it back and to my surprise that fixed it - almost. 4 months later I have only a few spots and some edges that will not stick

Any idea how can I fix that? would super glue work in a syringe?
 

MikePro

New Member
-super glue is awful. should only be used to fix acrylic, misc. plastic & ceramic pieces that fit perfectly/flat together. If epoxy was the cucumber, then superglue is cucumber water. :)

re-adhering vinyl, however:

-spray 77 is nice, but can be messy since you have to spray an aerosol can

-huge fan of rubber contact cement and a proper foam brush (not the crappy one that comes with most bottles of contact cement) is my go-to for detailing small bits of media that don't want to stick anymore.
 

Jester1167

Premium Subscriber
P.S.

It's best to use a cast vinyl for interior walls. The calendared vinyl won't conform to the orange peel texture of the painted wall and because it has a higher shrinkage rate, it is more likely to fail. Also using a High-Tack adhesive helps as well.

The first give away you're going to have trouble is if your tape won't hold the panel on the painted wall as you're trying to position it. If that's the case, your graphics won't stick long term either. If you quoting the job, take a roll of tape or a piece of vinyl so you know what to expect beforehand.

If your customer has been warned and willing to pay a little extra for your extra time, there are a few options to increase your chances:

1. 3M suggests using a 30% alcohol 70% water solution and clean the wall multiple times. Use a tape test to determine when you have cleaned enough. If you bump the alcohol ratio you can melt the top layer and the vinyl will stick really good, but you will run the risk of changing the color and sheen of the exposed paint.

2. Lightly scuff the painted area with a low grit scuff pad and then clean with the above alcohol solution. This works better when you have full coverage. The lightly scuffed texture will give the adhesive something to grab onto.

3. In a perfect world, they would repaint the wall with Zinsser or Kilz primer.

4. On exterior short term painted cheap plywood barricades, I have used banner tape on the perimeter. Make sure you leave some opening every few feet on the bottom for the water to drain. If you don't the bottom will blow up like a balloon, I know from experience.
 

Bradley Signs

Bradley Signs
-super glue is awful. should only be used to fix acrylic, misc. plastic & ceramic pieces that fit perfectly/flat together. If epoxy was the cucumber, then superglue is cucumber water. :)

re-adhering vinyl, however:

-spray 77 is nice, but can be messy since you have to spray an aerosol can

-huge fan of rubber contact cement and a proper foam brush (not the crappy one that comes with most bottles of contact cement) is my go-to for detailing small bits of media that don't want to stick anymore.[/QUOTE

Contact Cement using the two coat method will fix damn near everything! Souls that fall off of shoes, car seats, emblems on monument signs, metal to metal.... greatest stuff ever.
Been using it since the 70's....
 
P.S.

It's best to use a cast vinyl for interior walls. The calendared vinyl won't conform to the orange peel texture of the painted wall and because it has a higher shrinkage rate, it is more likely to fail. Also using a High-Tack adhesive helps as well.

The first give away you're going to have trouble is if your tape won't hold the panel on the painted wall as you're trying to position it. If that's the case, your graphics won't stick long term either. If you quoting the job, take a roll of tape or a piece of vinyl so you know what to expect beforehand.

If your customer has been warned and willing to pay a little extra for your extra time, there are a few options to increase your chances:

1. 3M suggests using a 30% alcohol 70% water solution and clean the wall multiple times. Use a tape test to determine when you have cleaned enough. If you bump the alcohol ratio you can melt the top layer and the vinyl will stick really good, but you will run the risk of changing the color and sheen of the exposed paint.

2. Lightly scuff the painted area with a low grit scuff pad and then clean with the above alcohol solution. This works better when you have full coverage. The lightly scuffed texture will give the adhesive something to grab onto.

3. In a perfect world, they would repaint the wall with Zinsser or Kilz primer.

4. On exterior short term painted cheap plywood barricades, I have used banner tape on the perimeter. Make sure you leave some opening every few feet on the bottom for the water to drain. If you don't the bottom will blow up like a balloon, I know from experience.

Now that you mention, I remember I couldn't stick my tape to the wall, damn I wish I had my brain engaged back then... I was ready to wash the wall with 70% alcohol and make them repaint it with primer, but was surprised that only the very edge lifted off and one corner. These are all great tips, thank you !
 

Reveal1

New Member
Agree with Jester's excellent suggestions except using cast. Use a fabric based material like phototex or walk n wall for lightly textured painted surfaces. Also good for painted block. Basically spans the seams, texture etc. and fabric gives with expansion/contraction etc. Otherwise, we have miles of plain ole calendared product out there without issue. Another worthwhile product is Probond adhesive promoter which has helped in several difficult situations. Don't forget to post heat. The general theme is test first, then like paint - preparation, preparation.
 

Jester1167

Premium Subscriber
Agree with Reveal1's opinion on the textile with some caveats. My experience is with PhotoTex printed on a solvent printer and it isn't abrasion-resistant without some type of liquid lam. If you install it without a liquid lam, make sure you use a soft buffer on your squeegee or you cun the risk of scraping the ink off where there are high spots from chunks in the paint. Repeated cleaning or abrasions will have similar results over time.
 
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