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Wall film frustration

Discussion in 'Digital Printing' started by TeamOutlaw, Oct 25, 2018.

  1. TeamOutlaw

    TeamOutlaw Member

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    May 4, 2011
    Brookings, SD
    We have seen an increase in the number of customers wanting large wall murals. One of our latest clients is the athletic dept of the local university. They just built a new wellness facility and have asked for multiple wall murals throughout the building.

    Here's my concern. We have a Roland printer and have used 3M IJ40c, 3M IJ35c and PhotoTex in the past. I like the install of the PhotoTex, but not a fan of the color vibrancy. IJ35 seems to really stick, but won't stay stuck over time. So, we've researched online and started using IJ40 with component 3M Luster laminate per numerous online articles.

    Put up a couple 8'x40' pieces last week on a smooth, interior sheetrocked wall painted with zero VOC Sherwin Williams semi gloss paint the week prior to install. Applied the vertical pieces, went over the ENTIRE thing with heat gun and rollers to ensure adhesion. Looked GREAT. 4 days later get a call that some of the panels were starting to let loose and curl away from the wall at the top. UGH.

    We have another wall to do for them next week that is pre-cast concrete with smooth paint. I'm hesitant to use proceed until I can get some advice. TIA
     

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    Last edited: Oct 25, 2018
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  2. LarryB

    LarryB Member

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    Dec 3, 2006
    Webster, Texas
    For concrete and cinder block we use 3M IJ8624 along with 8524 lam. We also primer 94 the crevices of the cinder block. Heat and apply with roller. I wouldn't risk using cheaper calendared vinyls for this application.

    For regular walls we use General Concepts version of Phototex and print on the HP Flatbed. Colors are more vibrant than printing on Roland. There will be a little lift up especially with heavy texture but overall it stays on the wall.
     
  3. TeamOutlaw

    TeamOutlaw Member

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    May 4, 2011
    Brookings, SD
    We use the 8625 concrete film on block walls as well and have had GREAT success with that. The concrete wall we have to do next is NOT block, it is cast / smooth.

    We don't have an HP flatbed...so that option is not viable for us either.
     
  4. SheBeau

    SheBeau Member

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    Dec 12, 2017
    Rochester, NY
    Absolutely use actual “Wall Paper” media that is pre-pasted, activated with water or no-paste, in which case you do it the old fashioned way and purchase wallpaper paste. HP has one example here: https://www.lexjet.com/pvc-free-wall-paper
    Here’s one of many we did with wall paper and a professional installer.
     

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    Last edited: Oct 26, 2018
    • Like Like x 1
  5. CL Visual

    CL Visual Member

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    Jun 8, 2016
    Copiague, NY
    I didn't have a chance to read other responses but we stopped using any calendared films on walls completely. For sheetrock painted walls we use IJ180cv3 with 8520 matte lamination and have had zero issues. Also, we use oracal 1.5" banner tape at the top of all walls just as a little reassurance that it will never release from the top were issues usually occur. I heard you could also use primer 94 up there but I haven't tried it.
     
  6. Jester1167

    Jester1167 Very Active Member

    Use Arlon DPF 8000 for low voc painted walls or specify the paint. Zinsser 123 or Kilz are the preferred paints for wall murals. Low voc paints have lots of plasticizers that prevent vinyl from sticking.

    3M suggest cleaning the entire wall with a mixture of 30% isopropyl alcohol and 70% water multiple times. The higher the concentration of alcohol the more likely you are to "melt the paint" and change the sheen. I've had to lightly sand a wall and clean with alcohol before. It was a small wall and time sensitive. The sanding creates a mechanical tooth for the adhesive to stick to and the alcohol removes the dust and plasticizers. Both of those options are a lot of extra work so know ahead of time and charge accordingly

    We don't use calendared vinyl on wall murals either because it shrinks too much.

    As CL Visual said, you can fix the previous mural by putting banner tape under the loose top edge and then squeegeeing the vinyl back down. Or use primer and putting it back down.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  7. WrapSolutions

    WrapSolutions New Member

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    Sep 12, 2018
    Boston, MA
    We've run into similar issues with the IJCV3, but so far so good with Avery 1105. Curious about the HP wall paper product you have link to on the above. I noticed it's 7 mil, has this given you any issues when printing? We have the HP 570 Latex
     
  8. JBurton

    JBurton Signtologist

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    Sep 28, 2017
    Arkansas
    I'm a fan of the ij180 as well, mistakenly let a customer choose luster laminate just last week. He was understanding that my vinyl was stuck well, just his sheetrock looked like garbage behind the luster finish. We always tell the customer that the wall must have been painted for 30 days prior to sticking, otherwise we are not responsible for prints letting loose and bubbles forming if the customer has a need to rush it
     
  9. Jester1167

    Jester1167 Very Active Member

    Matte lam is definitely the way to go on painted walls. I'll typically use an 18" drywall knife to scrape the high spots before installation on permanent jobs. Mall walls, it is what it is...
     
  10. Check out Walk and Wall. No lam necessary. We have great results on floor and walls.
     
  11. MNeel

    MNeel New Member

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    Feb 23, 2017
    Worthington
    Use AlumiGraphics Smooth on the concrete wall. It’s compatible with all types of printers, does not need an over laminate, conforms to texture or smooth surfaces without heat, and lasts for years.
     
  12. MNeel

    MNeel New Member

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    Feb 23, 2017
    Worthington
    Use AlumiGraphics Smooth on the concrete wall. It is compatible with types of printers, does not need an over lamianate, conforms to texture and smooth surfaces with heat, and lasts for years.
     
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