Weeding after laminating issue

[eahicks]

Also, others have posted that you don't want to see the "scoring" impression from the blade in the liner, which is not true. You most definitely want to see this impression in the liner, without the blade actually slicing into it. This ensures you have the proper pressure and depth combination based on the thickness of the material.

I agree with this, and got yelled at by GEEEENOOO for it. He doesn't agree with it. :0

 

[BIG EASY DOES IT]

I agree with this, and got yelled at by GEEEENOOO for it. He doesn't agree with it. :0

scoring and impression are two different things. If you can feel it an see it easily it's too deep. If you can put it in light and barely see an impression then your ok. I think people confuse the two.

 

[upandup]

Down pressure is the critical factor, not so much blade exposure. In theory, if the down pressure is properly set and there is sufficient blade exposed to cut through the media and leave an ever so slight indentation on the backing without dragging the blade holder over the media, then further blade exposure is harmless but unnecessary. That's the theory anyway.

Thanks for this, I've been very curious what effect blade exposure had as there is little information on what is "correct".

Not sure if anyone else mentioned this, but didn't see it. Try letting your vinyl sit for a couple days after contour cutting it (if you can), before weeding it. Overlaminate will contract slightly over time, pulling the cuts apart and making it easier to weed. Worth a try. Personally I never have that problem. I use 3m 180ijcv3 and 3m 8518 laminate.

Thanks, but I have tried this as well. Same results...

As was also mentioned, using a fresh sharp blade when possible will help as well. You might also slow down the speed(velocity) slightly to see if you get improved results. I have a lot of customers contour cutting similar laminated materials with the SummaCut models without issues, so I would think with a few small tweaks you should be able to get this dialed in and weeding better.

Thanks Phil for the thorough response. I have to say I have been very impressed with the customer service from Summa all around.

I have tried every combination of settings that I can think of - changed velocity up/down, adjusted offset, changed pressure up/down, opticut on/off, smoothing on/off - and I'm getting the same results. Honestly I really don't think it has to do with the cutter. One interesting thing I noticed was when I was doing the pressure test with the square with an X through it. I noticed when I held it up to the light and separated the X it has the adhesive fingers I mentioned earlier. Once it comes apart and breaks that adhesive if I put the X back together and try to separate again I am getting the exact same adhesive sticking back together.

In my mind the issue is with the laminate. Whether this is just normal or this laminate is the issue, I'm not sure. Leads to my question - is there such a thing as a bad batch of laminate? I also had a super nasty silvering problem with this laminate too that most led me to believe was very abnormal, so it makes me wonder if this batch has an issue. I am tempted to buy another roll just for test purposes. Thoughts?

 

[Behrmon]

Do you get the same results with the 3220 with no heat?

 

[upandup]

Do you get the same results with the 3220 with no heat?

Yep, exact same result. Before I got my laminator I tried the Big Squeegee and applied with my entire body weight trying to get rid of the silvering. Although it made it better it would take 3 days before it was sellable. Same result on the weeding.

 

[upandup]

Do you get the same results with the 3220 with no heat?

Although it pains me to get on and admit my stupidity I definitely don't want to affect anyone's perception of a product's quality or lead anyone astray who might read this in the future.

After reading Behrmon's question I started questioning whether or not my samples I had been using had been laminated the way I thought they had. I decided to start from scratch today and laminate some with just pressure and some with heat assist. Turns out the ones that were with pressure alone weed almost as good as it does without laminate at all. The heat assist actually weed okay, but not quite as well. It then dawned on me - I forgot that I had an issue with the calibration of the heat sensor when I first received the laminator, so when I laminated my first batch the heat on the roller was set way too high for cold laminate (probably 150 degrees or so). This must have caused some reaction with the laminate adhesive and thus the poor weeding.

I am beyond ecstatic that I have a solution and can continue using 3220. Thanks to everyone input that helped me get there. Sorry if I wasted anyone's time...

 

[reQ]

I don't think it was a waste of time, specially because solution was found

 

[gabagoo]

I have found with my Summa cutter that weeding from different angles can improve the process. I find that laminated square or round cut decals at times depending on the laminate can be a real pain (especially the small stuff), so once I see the issue I stop and rotate the sheet and try going from one of 3 other sides and sometimes I get lucky and it weeds beautifully. I am notorious for getting blades to last a long time...not because I am cheap and don't want to purchase new ones...I really dislike re figuring all my weight pressures, for all the different combos of printed materials

 

[chester215]

Not sure if anyone else mentioned this, but didn't see it. Try letting your vinyl sit for a couple days after contour cutting it (if you can), before weeding it. Overlaminate will contract slightly over time, pulling the cuts apart and making it easier to weed. Worth a try. Personally I never have that problem. I use 3m 180ijcv3 and 3m 8518 laminate.

For quicker results, try putting it in the freezer.

 

[ActionGraphics]

For quicker results, try putting it in the freezer.

I've tried that. I had problems with the backing becoming moist.

 

[tulsagraphics]

Change blades more often than you expect

i can only offer this: even though simple shapes might weed easily, you simply cannot change blades often enough. i use inexpensive blades and change them often. i can weed 1/2" text (print/lam) easily with a new blade..with a month old blade its torture.

Agreed. And you mentioned that you also do flexcutting -- an awesome feature (although not "perf"ect. lol), it's very handy. The problem with flexcutting is that it actually cuts into the paper itself, wearing down your blade in no time, whereas regular vinyl plotting (if configured properly) is only cutting through the vinyl and the wax coating -- not the paper.

 

[Quickcope]

check the nylon strip on the base plate where the blade comes down..
If that is worn or has gouge marks... the blade is pushing the material
down into that valley and not allowing the blade to cut.... if it has a groove in it.. replace it..
I bet you find that is your problem..

 

[BIG EASY DOES IT]

check the nylon strip on the base plate where the blade comes down..
If that is worn or has gouge marks... the blade is pushing the material
down into that valley and not allowing the blade to cut.... if it has a groove in it.. replace it..
I bet you find that is your problem..

Just remember to check your pressure again before starting to cut. Sometimes even if it is the same cutting strip you put in last time. It might sit just a little higher or lower and your pressure is different then the last time your replaced.

 

[tulsagraphics]

Just remember to check your pressure again before starting to cut. Sometimes even if it is the same cutting strip you put in last time. It might sit just a little higher or lower and your pressure is different then the last time your replaced.

Good point. You may also notice that the part of the cutting strip closest to the head's home position (on the right side) has the most wear, so that could affect your test cut results. I often run 2 to 4 test cuts (at the same pressure) to ensure consistency.