Pat Whatley
New Member
All I'm gong to say is that paste car wax, like Turtle Wax, can do amazing things.
In our quotes, when quoting glass windows or doors, we have a line item which simply states ALL glass must be cleaned by others. We are not responsible for any cleaning, except for a final cleaning of an alcohol wash. As a matter of fact, we have a similar line item for doing just about any work on anything which does not originate in our shop.
In the glass installs I've done, we never had specific text in the quote/contract/invoice about this. We just cleaned the area necessary to apply the vinyl and moved on. Never had complaints about us not cleaning the rest of the window. But I could always tell who never cleaned their windows. I'd come back months later and the install area was still highly visible because of the dirt caked on around it.
Consider yourself lucky. Over the years we developed these line items to protect ourselves from possible nightmares.
I've gotten to jobs, which I quoted to take X amount of time and spent an hour or more cleaning the tape, gum and other crap people have put on the glass over time. Paint splatters, bug nests in the corners and just plain filth. Same goes for a vehicle or anything in which the customer supplies the substrate to be lettered. When I quote lettering a truck, I do not include washing it down, taking off road grease or anything else. A quick wash, dry and final alcohol wash..... that's all. Now, if something takes an extra few minutes, no problem, but it's in there to protect us.
We did a truck last week, that when you looked at the truck from a distance, it looked like we spray painted white blobs on the truck everywhere we lettered it, cause the rest of the truck looked dull grey and that's no lie. I charged them an extra $140.00 for cleaning it, as they did not do as the quote required.
This is what they all say......
Vehicles must be washed by your company before bringing them in for lettering or graphic installations. Failure to wash the vehicle by your company will add...
I agree with adding $$ for vinyl and paint to be removedYep. Find out if there's anything to remove and charge for it.
Time is money.
Get a quote from any installation contractor and that's one of the first things they ask.
On the side note: I installed some window tint in their gym windows and I used a brand new blade and used the soapy water and it stilled scuffed the crap out of the glass. That was only visible after i put the tint on it. I guess i will never touch a glass again with any metal
And i did had to clean it bad because there were a TON of overspray
And I always make the cleaning stuff a much higher price, cause we're highly skilled and talented artists and get paid dearly for our time. When they ask me if I'm serious about that, I tell them, yep, I sure am.
So it doesn't seem that anyone knows that tempered glass has good side and a bad side (for using a razor blade). It all depends on the glass manufacturer and their kiln. When the glass goes through the tempering process it goes back into the kiln to get baked again and then a quick high pressure cooling, and in this cooling process if the kiln isn't completely clean dust particles settle on the top side of the glass and get baked into the surface of the glass.. in turn you would have 1 smooth side (the bottom) and 1 "rough" side (the top). While the bottom side is smooth, using a razor blade on it will do no harm but on the rough side it will leave the scratches every time. We see it every day, being a specialized 3m authorized solar and security film dealer; applying materials to glass is what we do.
Now in saying this, not all glass manufacturers' tempered glass will have this issue. We have one manufacturer here (not going to name name's) and it is every single piece of tempered glass has the rough side and can't have a razor put on it but we've had glass from other manufacturers and have never had an issue with either side.
It will also depend on the type of glass as well; there is 3 types. Straight annealed (breaks into large shards), heat-strengthened (breaks into larger shards but has a greater chance of staying together), and tempered (breaks into small cubes). Annealed will never scratch with using a razor blade, heat-strengthened and tempered are dependent on the manufacturer.
As far as which type of razor blade to use, some people here have said that stainless steel blade won't scratch - that is false. It is dependent on the blade itself. We use the triumph blades and we use the carbon blades because they have a smaller chance to scratch glass than the stainless triumph blades.
And by looking at the photo, those definitely look like scratches from the razor blade. I would always use some sort of slip solution on the glass with the blade as it will help to reduce the risk of cause scratches. Sorry to break it to you but those are definitely scratches from the razor blade.
Chaz
You are bang on. We are a 3m solar security dealer as well and the bad side of glass drives me nuts. Your write up was perfect, if I wouldn’t have read this I would have said something very similar. I agree, the razor blade he used caused the scratches. Even if it was new, if it was the soft side it would have scratched it anyways.
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I used an old (not rusty crazy old, just not totally fresh) blade and dry scraped off letters. After I got the vinyl off I used brake cleaner to get the adhesive off but still... I didn't scratch glass.
Maybe rust can build up on a blade and become harder then glass?? Was your blade chipped or broken? That could cause it.