What causes the corners to lift and dog ear on adhesive vinyl?

[CMYKprnt]

I have a client that is complaining that the corners are lifting. We have not done anything differently and we have been printing these for 3 years without issue in the past. We are using Orajet 2.5MM 3651. It is a clear vinyl that is adhered to glass door applied to exterior. Does anyone have any experience with this issue?

ORAJET 3651 (Transparent)

• Special PVC film (70 micron)
• White and transparent in gloss, silk gloss and matt
• For medium-term outdoor applications
• Solvent polyacrylate, permanent adhesion, grey and transparent

 

[TimToad]

Can you post a photo or better describe what the decals are and how they are produced?

If they are a full bleed, are you letting them sit overnight before contour cutting them?

 

[CMYKprnt]

Sorry I do not have a photo at this time.

It is an outdoor label that has the store hours of a restaurant. Approximately 12"x11" rectangle no special contour, No bleed, White ink, 15% ink coverage, produced on a HP FB700 UV printer. 54"x100" roll of media. They are generally printed, cut and shipped the same day.

Are there some general rules as to why this would happen? Like weather, dirty window, etc?

 

[player]

The window washer is the culprit.

Can you round the corners?

 

[CMYKprnt]

I can probably round the corners. Can you explain? Sorry, I am new to this.

 

[player]

I can probably round the corners. Can you explain? Sorry, I am new to this.

If you put a good radius on the corners they will not be as easy to lift off as sharp corners.

You would be wise to up your material quality to a cast vinyl rather than the 3651 which is calendared. The calendared vinyl will shrink quite a bit, which can lead to the vinyl lifting.

 

[bob]

I can probably round the corners. Can you explain? Sorry, I am new to this.

When vinyl has a sharp corner there is a point on that corner, usually where the vinyl is thicker than it is wide, where the adhesive is not sufficient and will fail. It's here that the vinyl will start to lift. By rounding all sharp corners, even minutely, this geometrical curiosity is avoided. Minutely means using a .02" or so radius, effectively invisible invisible.

 

[Morkel]

If it's been working until now I'd say your materials aren't the issue. It'll be the surface it's being applied to. Especially in a restaurant, over time there will be a buildup of grease, and a normal spray & wipe won't cut through it. I'd suggest they clean it with an alcohol-based cleaner, and pretty thoroughly.

 

[ATW]

If you are using an ECO SOL ink and the cut is on the bleed.
Then you should turn your heater to about 46-49 ( for printer and dryer ). It works every time for me

 

[gabagoo]

If the client is applying themselves there is a good chance that they peel it away from a corner with dirty hands. I round corner everything if possible

 

[Chas]

cut n bleed

If you are using an ECO SOL ink and the cut is on the bleed.
Then you should turn your heater to about 46-49 ( for printer and dryer ). It works every time for me

Wow, Just turned my Mimaki heaters up and bang good corners. I also finally found out how to "print out" a list of settings for "cut" mode. This way I saw that Acceleration," (Change g) ADJ-PRS OFFSET" (set higher level) and Over-Cut ( more )were not set correctly. Way better corners even on the dreaded "glitter print" transfer film. They all change how a corner is cut (or not as was the case). I had just carried over the settings from other cut modes and thought that changing Spd-Prs- Offset settings to match the knife would do it. NOPE
Setting these items was not well documented in the user manual so I had to wing it. Found them in the "appendix" Flow Chart. I then used common settings chart in the manual to find how to print "list". Keeping it next to the cutter now.