what chemical removes adhesive from lexan?

[HulkSmash]

interesting. I got a ton of it sitting around the shop. I'll give it a try. Thanks!

 

[SightLine]

For extra sensitive stuff like the crap paint on utility trailers and plastics we have found Goo Gone works pretty good - you can get a gel version in a spray bottle at lowes. Seems like anything else we tried on utility trailers softens the paint on them.

 

[Gino]

The main solvent in WD-40 that is mixed with the oil is kerosene.

I wasn't 100% sure, but as far as I knew, there was no kerosene in WD-40, along with many other ingredients you might think be in there.

After checking their site, I came across this little tid-bit........

While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents.
​

 

[Fred Weiss]

I wasn't 100% sure, but as far as I knew, there was no kerosene in WD-40, along with many other ingredients you might think be in there.

After checking their site, I came across this little tid-bit........

While the ingredients in WD-40 are secret, we can tell you what WD-40 does NOT contain. WD-40 does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, wax, graphite, chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), or any known cancer-causing agents.
​

Interesting. I've seen it and heard it many times proving then the strength of an untruth.

 

[Tony Q's Kidd]

the guys who make "RappidTak" (check spelling) also make a remover that works wonders.

 

[Terremoto]

Here's a PDF from Sabic - the maker of Lexan - on the proper cleaning procedure for Lexan sheet products.

http://www.fist.si/db/fist/File/Sabic/LEXAN Sheet Cleaning Recomm.pdf

Dan

 

[J Hill Designs]

huh. kerosene and butyl cellusolve. go figure.

 

[artbot]

...i put some premask on a printed (white ink) sheet of petg for protection. i don't know if the premask was bad (it was the clear stuff) or what. but i had adhesive residue everywhere. whatever i tried, ...those that wouldn't melt the petg or remove the ink, just smeared the adhesive around. i did the goo-gone, paint thinners, wd40, camping fuel, etc. basically every can of whatever i had in stock, and i have three shelves full of solvents of every kind. then as a whim, i think "cellosolve?, why not...although it has no cutting properties whatsoever".

did the butyl cellosolve and it rendered the adhesive "not adhesive". the molecules just changed to something different i guess. all of it just started rolling of a tiny rubber boogers. like if i used an old gum eraser and had to brush off the "filings". not only that, the ink! the white ink was fine like nothing happened. butyl cellosolve isn't the safest stuff in the world. but nothing is. lacquer thinner, MEK, everything is bad. just use gloves if it bothers your skin. i can't really see it being an inhalation risk in that it can hardly evaporate. no one has ever been "run" out of a studio because of cellosolve. it has almost no scent to it at all. i've got MEK going so strong with some processes that you can literally taste it! gah!

 

[Fred Weiss]

Well I may have been wrong about WD-40 but I was correct about kerosene.

 

[TyrantDesigner]

I use wd-40 on back sprayed acrylic panels to clean up paint overspray on the front (not sure if it will work on lexan) and the rest of my cleaners are kroil, rapid remover and if I am worried about chemicals affecting a substrate I will use Goo Gone (not goof off ... that stuff sucks) Kroil may work ... it takes a little longer to make the adhesive turn into a big booger like rapid remover ... but i use it on everything and have only had a bad reaction on a vehicle that was covered in spray paint primer and told "you can't hurt my paint job" ... I did.

 

[houseofgrafix]

What about Ghost Off?

 

[JOE1]

I have had all types of problems with lexan and plexi, and have tried lots of things, but the following are the best of the best i have tried: 1. Turpentine (sold at the Home Depot), 2. wd40, 3.Lacquer Thiner (home depot again). 4. Paint Remover (home depot), 5.Adhesive Remover (any sign supplier). IMPORTANT: after cleaning it totally and before placing the new material, ALWAYS clean it up very well with regular windex to take out particles of the previous cleaner (especially 4dw). Once, the previous material was so hard to take out that what i did is mix them all AND IT WORKED! good luck. www.hispanasigns.com

 

[Brandon708]

Rapid Remover, It works every time.

Spray it on and let it sit for about 30 seconds, then scrape it off with a 4" blade. Then clean up the Rapid Remover with Denatured Alcohol.

 

[BobM]

Rapid Remover, It works every time.

Spray it on and let it sit for about 30 seconds, then scrape it off with a 4" blade. Then clean up the Rapid Remover with Denatured Alcohol.

+1 except I use Rapid Prep to do the final cleanup. I try to stay away from any of the toxic chemicals when I know that Rapid Prep, Rapid Remove or Rapid Tac II will do the job without the noxious fumes.

 

[The Big Squeegee]

I always used mineral spirits. I use a regular 4" squeegee to scrape the glue blobs off. The graphics shade where ever it is and leaves a white area surrounded by sun yellowed bare Lexan. I pore vinegar over it and let it sit for 15-20 minutes before wiping it off. Followed with mild soap solution.

Lexan has a layer of UV protection that needs to be replaced after cleaning. Use a car polish(not wax) for UV protection.

 

[Latigo]

Auto-Tech. Never fails, never harms the Polycarbonate of Acrylic.