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What Vinyl to use, help pls

O

ozpall

New Member
Hello Everyone,
I have a customer that wants me to replace the graphics they currently have, (pic attached for ref)
what's there right now feels like a window cling mounted on the inside of the windows, not sure how long its been there as its falling to pieces if you touch it.
so my question is what material should i use, inside facing window cling? I'm concern about durability as customer keeps them for a long time. i would normally tell the customer to go with vinyl/perf on the outside but the windows are pretty big and if you look at the picture there is like a basement so i don't even have ladders that big. i've done tons of window installations but always on the outside mostly perf.
any help is much appreciate it.
thanks,

Oscar.
 

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MarkSnelling

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
I've got some options for you beyond the WindowTac (which I sell). Do you have a laminator? If so, I'd go with a clear removable adhesive and a white/white adhesive vinyl for your white point. Whether or not you want it to be completely opaque would be up to you.

The cheapeast and easiest route would be to use their 6mil white/white removable vinyl with air-egress and put it on the outside of the window. Will remove cleanly up till about a year. But if it has to be inside, going with the clear backed with white would be easy to install, easy to remove, and just a quick pass through the laminator.
 
O

ozpall

New Member
MarkSnelling said:
I've got some options for you beyond the WindowTac (which I sell). Do you have a laminator? If so, I'd go with a clear removable adhesive and a white/white adhesive vinyl for your white point. Whether or not you want it to be completely opaque would be up to you.

The cheapeast and easiest route would be to use their 6mil white/white removable vinyl with air-egress and put it on the outside of the window. Will remove cleanly up till about a year. But if it has to be inside, going with the clear backed with white would be easy to install, easy to remove, and just a quick pass through the laminator.
Click to expand...
yes i think I'm going this route. i do have a laminator. if job gets approved i will contact you for pricing on the WindowTac for sure.
thank you for the reply!!!
 
DL Signs

DL Signs

Never go against the family
Whoever originally did it probably did it on the inside because of that basement. Ladders would be pretty sketchy, scaffolding would be easier/ safer, if it'll even fit in there.
I'd put it back on the inside. That way if they ever want it removed/ changed again, and come back to you, it'll make your life easier.
 
jcskikus

jcskikus

Owner, Designer & Installer
ozpall said:
Hello Everyone,
I have a customer that wants me to replace the graphics they currently have, (pic attached for ref)
what's there right now feels like a window cling mounted on the inside of the windows, not sure how long its been there as its falling to pieces if you touch it.
so my question is what material should i use, inside facing window cling? I'm concern about durability as customer keeps them for a long time. i would normally tell the customer to go with vinyl/perf on the outside but the windows are pretty big and if you look at the picture there is like a basement so i don't even have ladders that big. i've done tons of window installations but always on the outside mostly perf.
any help is much appreciate it.
thanks,

Oscar.
Click to expand...

I usually print mirror-imaged on clear vinyl (Oracal 3640, for instance) and laminate it in white Oracal 3640. It's calendared and as it's in a window, with the sunny blasting on it daily, you'll get 3-4 MAX whatever you put up there.
 
A

Applied Graphics WY

New Member
MarkSnelling said:
I've got some options for you beyond the WindowTac (which I sell). Do you have a laminator? If so, I'd go with a clear removable adhesive and a white/white adhesive vinyl for your white point. Whether or not you want it to be completely opaque would be up to you.

The cheapeast and easiest route would be to use their 6mil white/white removable vinyl with air-egress and put it on the outside of the window. Will remove cleanly up till about a year. But if it has to be inside, going with the clear backed with white would be easy to install, easy to remove, and just a quick pass through the laminator.
Click to expand...
Mark, I sent you a message.
 
Signarama Jockey

Signarama Jockey

New Member
I'm betting whatever you end up using, you should consider the UV punishment it's going to take. Looking at that location on google maps and that whole side of the building faces South (and not much shade).

If longevity is your goal, see if you can work in some UV protection.
 
O

ozpall

New Member
Signarama Jockey said:
I'm betting whatever you end up using, you should consider the UV punishment it's going to take. Looking at that location on google maps and that whole side of the building faces South (and not much shade).

If longevity is your goal, see if you can work in some UV protection.
Click to expand...

so the stuff they currently have there is window cling material, and it literally its falling apart just by looking at it, they had that stuff there for years, the picture shows a home and the tv is the old school big boxie tv.
 
MarkSnelling

MarkSnelling

Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
Andrea Hutchison said:
We use 3M IJ40 Clear - reverse printed and then use a generic White Vinyl as the "Laminate". We do this pretty regularly.
Click to expand...
while clearly bullet-proof, using IJ 40 on something simple like a window is sort of like putting premium gas in a rental car. You could save hundreds by going with a more simple calendared clear vinyl.
 
A

Andrea Hutchison

New Member
MarkSnelling said:
while clearly bullet-proof, using IJ 40 on something simple like a window is sort of like putting premium gas in a rental car. You could save hundreds by going with a more simple calendared clear vinyl.
Click to expand...
MarkSnelling said:
while clearly bullet-proof, using IJ 40 on something simple like a window is sort of like putting premium gas in a rental car. You could save hundreds by going with a more simple calendared clear vinyl.
Click to expand...
Agreed on the pricing, but like mentioned above, these could be up for several years. My opinion it is better to spend a little more money and know that its not going to fail.
 
J

JTW

New Member
We are using 40C-114R for reverse decal and my installer is trying to wet apply. It is coming off as he is working on it, vs IJ180CV3-10 or 7125 which are OK. Are we using the wrong material or the wrong technique?
 
A

Andrea Hutchison

New Member
jere_williams@cadwellsign said:
We are using 40C-114R for reverse decal and my installer is trying to wet apply. It is coming off as he is working on it, vs IJ180CV3-10 or 7125 which are OK. Are we using the wrong material or the wrong technique?
Click to expand...
Wet Application isnt really neccesary as 40C has air release. If its coming off, maybe less water on the surface. Is he using Transfer tape?
 
J

JTW

New Member
Most is indoor, but I'll check to see if recent decals were on exterior doors. It's cold here. What's your take on the transfer tape? Some of this is contour cut letters so really can't work well without it. The installer really prefers wet apply. Are there better vinyls for that than the 40C, if he continues to have issues?
 
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