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What's the secret to apply Vinyl on 10mm Coroplast

brycesteiner

New Member
I've tried several times today.

I have no problem applying to the 4mm coroplast. But now that I have a customer who wants it on 10mm, I'm getting bubbles like crazy under the vinyl. I've tried with the flutes, against the flutes. The sign is 24x60. The flutes go long. For the most part it worked best when using my 38" Big Squeegee going against the flutes. I also tried my 56" with the flutes and I couldn't get it started right because of the length and the curl of the viny.. I think it would have been okay.

Thanks!
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Must have something to do with working at a higher altitude. I heard where the air gets thinner as you go up and sometimes various things act differently at various heights.


Ya just might need a decompression chambering unit to equalize the depths of hypotenuses to the equaliberium of the static nature of ionic molecule pressures, so they don't crystallize so quickly. That's the problem.... the crystallization.
:pops_blinking:
 

eahicks

Magna Cum Laude - School of Hard Knocks
I use a laminator, for 4mm, 10mm, PVC, etc. etc. Never have had an issue.
 

JBusch260

New Member
We're in Ft Wayne, similar weather conditions... Just a couple questions, what are you using to clean the boards? Do you have a lot of static in the building (we do, especially with this cold weather)? We used to apply vinyl to coro, but we invested in a flatbed direct to print UV printer from CET. Makes it all a lot easier than applying vinyl anymore. Does the coro have deep grooves in the flutes? What happens if you poke a little air release hole? Does it stay down or does it come back up?
 

reQ

New Member
Must have something to do with working at a higher altitude. I heard where the air gets thinner as you go up and sometimes various things act differently at various heights.


Ya just might need a decompression chambering unit to equalize the depths of hypotenuses to the equaliberium of the static nature of ionic molecule pressures, so they don't crystallize so quickly. That's the problem.... the crystallization.


:goodpost:
 

GAC05

Quit buggin' me
You can always go old school and break out the Velcro covered 3M gold squeegee.
Never hurts to brush up on your strokes......
(unless you have to do more than 20 or so)

wayne k
guam usa
 

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
Bubbles and creases etc. are virtually always a result of bad squeegee technique.

The only relevant difference between the various mil thicknesses of Coroplast is the width of the flutes. The thicker the Coroplast the wider the flutes. If you're squeegee technique is proper then it shouldn't matter a whit what thickness of material of direction of application.

Note that the larger the application the easier it is to let your squeegee technique become somewhat less than ideal. It has to do with the length of stroke being larger while the squeegee remains a pathetic 4" or so. The longer the stroke that harder to track on the previous stroke.
 

pjfmeister

New Member
We used to do a ton of these 4'x8' and 4'x4' with the big Squeegee without lamination.
Obviously on say 4'x4' you can go across the flutes and there is no problem
going with the flutes its almost impossible to not get air pockets and or bubbles....
Just make sure your print is dry for 24 hours if possible. The longer it drys the better results.
If you try to pop a large pocket you will end up with lots of small bubbles...If you try to press it down into the flutes after application you will get lots of bubbles.
Most of the time the some of the bubbles go away after a few days out in the sun...but hard to pass that on to the customer.
 

Tony McD

New Member
Is this a print or cut vinyl?
Cast or calendar (probably calendar on coro)

I hardly ever use a hard squeegee anymore....really like the felt ones.

Have noticed in the past that sometimes when removing the transfer tape,
it can pull on the vinyl enough to cause bubbles especially in the flutes.
Especially high tack tape.
Making sure to clean the coro really good to start with helps, it's often dusty/dirty.
 

Techman

New Member
as bob said.
Bubbles are just about always caused by application techniques.
Even dirty coroplast will take on a properly pressed vinyl sheet without blisters..
I have never washed a coro sheet and do not plan on it when putting down some vinyl.
 
My guess is pressure issue. Maybe using too much pressure on your laminator. Is it height adjustable or pressure adjustable. For aluminum we use 90lbs pressure for coro we drop to 40

c
 
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