Window perf overlap?

[Stacey K]

I have some business windows all are 72.5" high, 1 - 52 wide with "coming soon", 1 - 26" wide with nothing, 1 - 84" wide with logo. Material is only 50"? I've never ordered anything this large and I don't print in-house. Will be temporary until the business opens up in a couple months.

1. Do I print and overlap the design? how will that look?
2. Can I just install white window perf and put vinyl over the top? I think this would be cheaper but will that look crappy?

Ideas welcome, thanks!

 

[eahicks]

IMO overlaps look bad. I butt the prints up, and try to make the seam along some kind of line or border in the art so it's not noticeable if the vinyl happens to shrink any over time. I purposely add something for that purpose to the design and work with the eventual seam.

 

[JulieS]

We always overlap a small amount because of the shrinkage possibility. I don't think it looks too bad. We also do some with vinyl logo or whatever applied on top of the perf. Problem with that is, of course, it cancels out the see-throughness of the perf.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

butt seam. an overlap will be highly visible. use a straight edge to trim off any overlap to about 1/16" don't worry about shrinkage on perf,

 

[2B]

You want the finished Perf to have a butt seam.
Depending on your abilities, you can install as a butt seam or install with an overlap and then cut the overlap so it becomes a butt seam

Perf is temp material, so any shrinkage will be minimal before it is replaced

 

[Sindex Printing]

I have seemed it together at customer request and have also done a butt seam at the customers request.
More importantly make sure it lines up correctly and if you seem it try and avoid it from being at eye level from when the customer looks out and can't see through it.

 

[Stacey K]

Thanks everyone! Great tips, I'm excited to try this out!

 

[TomClarke]

You can overlap and then take a strait edge down over the overlap to make a but seam.

 

[Eforcer]

When you overlap apply 2 sided tape between the seams, this will help some of the shrinkage problem it may have with the heat from the sun. It will look cleaner also.

 

[Stacey K]

Just got this installed. Took myself and my 2 teenage boys 2 hours. Turned out ok but I don’t feel like I did this the easiest way! Middle piece was one. The sides were 2 horizontal pieces. What is the most efficient way to apply this? We sat there staring at each window for a while lol good bonding experience I guess. Put the tip left piece up first with the hinge method down the middle. Same with the bottom. The right side we started on the right and worked left. Then the bottom we pulled 8” off the top and lined it up then worked down. We got it but...not sure if it was the best method lol

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Just got this installed. Took myself and my 2 teenage boys 2 hours. Turned out ok but I don’t feel like I did this the easiest way! Middle piece was one. The sides were 2 horizontal pieces. What is the most efficient way to apply this? We sat there staring at each window for a while lol good bonding experience I guess. Put the tip left piece up first with the hinge method down the middle. Same with the bottom. The right side we started on the right and worked left. Then the bottom we pulled 8” off the top and lined it up then worked down. We got it but...not sure if it was the best method lol

I cut about 12" off the top of the panel's backing. I walk up the ladder and visually line up the top of the panel with the top of the window. Then I put pressure on the two corners...enough to hold the panel up long enough for me to start squeegeeing where the paper backing starts and work up to the top. Once that 12" section is applied I work down the window like normal, using sideways strokes until I get more than halfway down, then I squeegee down.

This video is KIND OF like how I do it, however I cut the backing paper so you don't have that big fold and the perf can lay flat so you can see exactly how it will lay on the window. They start squeegeeing from the very top and I don't like that because it can track and get wrinkles. I squeegee where I cut the perf.

 

[BALLPARK]

I forget what the tool is called, but it's cuts the backing paper with ease. We used to pull away the backing paper and then start to work the vinyl. Now we just make a slit on the back of the paper, align it, and then simply remove the backing paper.

Overlaps can reduce the overall look of the window perf for sure.

You can use the butt/cut method to where you trim down the middle of the panel with a steady hand and guide. Then remove the trimmed areas to make it look like one piece. The brand you use will help determine the amount of time the print will last, but it should last at least a year of looking good.

 

[Stacey K]

Oops...the photo didn't upload Friday. I can see the seam a little bit on the left. I can stop back and trim it.

 

[Eforcer]

Looks good and glad you had time with your boys. Keep it in the family...

Sign Up!

 

[Stacey K]

I cut about 12" off the top of the panel's backing. I walk up the ladder and visually line up the top of the panel with the top of the window. Then I put pressure on the two corners...enough to hold the panel up long enough for me to start squeegeeing where the paper backing starts and work up to the top. Once that 12" section is applied I work down the window like normal, using sideways strokes until I get more than halfway down, then I squeegee down.

This video is KIND OF like how I do it, however I cut the backing paper so you don't have that big fold and the perf can lay flat so you can see exactly how it will lay on the window. They start squeegeeing from the very top and I don't like that because it can track and get wrinkles. I squeegee where I cut the perf.

Well, this makes more sense LOL! Can do this alone next time I think if I use this method, thanks for finding me this!