Wood sign

What you want is a paint mask vinyl. Here's a link to the choices offered by my usual vendor. The transfer tape choice shouldn't be a problem ... most will work just fine.

 

You're going to apply a vinyl mask to raw wood, paint, then remove the mask, so where the stencil was placed it will still be raw wood?

 

without a perfectly smooth wood surface or sealing the wood you stand a good chance of having the paint bleed along the mask edge.

 

I'm just wondering ........ is the raw wood going to be the exposed face of this sign when finished? What kind of wood are you using?

Thanks,

Joe,

Makin Chip$ and Havin Fun!

 

I was just wondering why not clearcoat first, then mask and paint? That would solve any bleed issues and your mask won't pull up any fibers.....tho with maple I don't think it would be a problem.

I LOVE Catalpa!!!

I saw your site.......nice carvings!
Your business is certainly not a one trick pony by any means. Kool!

Thanks,

Joe,

Makin Chip$ and Havin Fun!

 

yes clear coat the wood FIRST.. like Mr Chips says, was wondering myself why you would not do that first.

 

Like everyone said, clear coat first. Make sure the clear coat and paint will match (i.e. no spray paint on urethane or oiled enamel on acrylic sealers, etc) ... clear coat doesn't need to be overly applied, I've gotten by with one coat of clear enamel on my enamel jobs since the first layer sucks right into the wood and prevents any bleeding when fully cured. I like about 3 layers though. Also make sure you clear coat over the top of the paint when you are done, softens the edge of the area you applied the mask and helps it prevent oxidation of the paint.

 

splinters..

If the vinyl is too agressive it will pull off wood ( small but can be a real issue) when the stencil itself is removed. A low tack stencil vinyl mask is best or you can rub the adhesive with your hand or across your pant leg to "lower" the tackiness before application..depending on the size and all. It's a balance of tacky enough to stick to the wood and not the transfer paper..I've even sprayed the sticky side of the transfer paper with a light coat of flat clear before pressing onto the cut vinyl to "adjust" the tacky level.
You can get some very cool effects by spraying stains or candy colors this way to simulate stained wood. If you want a crisp lettering but raw wood color and do not intend to stain or pain the background wood..use Sherwin Williams 24% high solids vinyl sealer on the wood first and it will give you a nice smooth clear surface and protect the grain..it should sanded after it is dry and before applying vinyl. That can also be painted or cleared over with any finish. That will give the vinyl something to stick to so the transfer paper lets go. I don't have the number..but there is a heavy textured vinyl transparent transfer "paper" that is low tack..check that out first.
Good luck

 

I use an airbrush and spray lightly and then it doesn't bleed.

 

I have painted a color close to the color of the wood first(after masking). When it bleeds you can't see it much. Then put the letter color on.