as far as doing damper swaps, it doesn't mechanically hurt anything. the ink mixing is minimal in that it is just the interior plumbing of the print head and the bottom milliliters of the damper. it's an isolation technique (damper swaps, data ribbon swaps, pump tube swaps)...remember the ink is contaminating in the cap. make sure your cap isn't clogged. remove any screen or sponges, etc and clean so that the latent can wick back up to the print head surface.
if you do a head clean, then print... i'm figuring the issue doesn't happen. or does the ink contaminate that quickly? the print heads are supposed to have pressure or the weight of the ink lightly pressing down into the print head. imagine a chain dropping off the edge of a roof, the bottom of the chain is pulling the rest of the chain off the roof because of it's weight. what's keeping that chain falling is that "it's chained" together. your ink is molecularly chained together by the pressure inside the ink lines. the viscosity (because you mentioned the temperature) doesn't come into play. you can syphon water or straight solvents with these printers. and those fluids have very low surface tension.
do a couple diagnostic tests. after observing and cleaning the interior of the caps.
1) pull the cyan line/damper and let it hang for a while. observe if the damper drips.
2) pull the yellow line/damper and let hang. observe if the level in the damper recedes over about a 10 minute period. if it does, tighten the fittings and test again. if it still recedes change the damper.
3) swap the damper positions and report if the behavior "follows" the ink lines. my suggestion is that for this test, you have to switch ink lines yellow/magenta. because yellow and cyan share the same cap.
4) after that if nothing surfaces, you will need to start seeing if your caps lines are clogged.