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Until you figure out your overhead, hourly rate, etc. you can use a few different tools to get you in the ballpark. (Definitely use White Haus' link - lots of good stuff in there) These guys have some pretty decent calculators. https://thesignexpert.com/sign-pricing-calculators/ Signs.com -...

Sounds like an idiot. Either get with the times or go out of business. Perhaps he's purposely trying to "fight the system".

What kind of ribbon? If it's like a satin sash then you should be using HTV with a heat press or screen print transfers - not vinyl. Do you have a sample you can show us? Have you tried a heat gun yet?

Yup! I print most of my stuff here now! I used the IJ180 until all of you turned me on to the SLX+ - now it's the only thing I use! That police car partial wrap I did was made so much easier with the SLX+. I still order out my perf and I guess clear cling LOL

You already fit in! Welcome!

Yup! I LOVE IT! I remember last summer I had helper with a horizontal panel similar to gnublers but longer. They held the corner so tight it was stretched out like an extra inch. Was a real PITA to get it flat! But I trimmed it up and all was fine LOL Lesson learned! Hold it gently, just enough...

The biggest thing to remember is keep it in your head not to stretch the vinyl. Don't pull it too tight from any corner or side. Nothing like ending up with a long droopy corner.

They need to add this emoji...for YOUR COMMENTS!

Is that just coroplast with the center piece being attached with the vinyl? Could you use some kind of 2-3" tape to hold the center piece on then apply vinyl over it?

Simpleton here. I use SignTracker. I make signs, screen print, embroidery, banners, decals. I have all my print materials entered as linear and square foot depending on what they are. There are task lists for your employees, several kinds of calendars, lists, place for details, photo storage...

I do this all the time alone. Either way will work fine. If it's not windy I would just center hinge and take all the backing paper off the left side then do the right side. 3' is manageable to hold. If it's windy then do Burtons way. Out of curiosity, has anyone ever used a Big Squeegee for an...

This is a relatively new customer. Everything I've done so far with their supplied artwork has been a real project. They have terrible art assets, photos, etc. sizing not correct, blurry photos...a lot of going back and forth. I just emailed her and asked if their last printer had printed these...

OMG - this is way over my head and doesn't seem like a good idea at all!

So it's a window cling of a business name that I believe they are giving all the farmers to stick in their windows. The bottom inch or so should be clear

Not sure where I'm ordering them yet because they just changed it from white background to clear. Normally I would get from Signs365 but they don't sell clear. Any ideas are welcome!

I have Flexi - which I just tried and it won't let me select transparent. I'm going to try it in Corel...

Hi All! How do I do a fade like this so the bottom is clear when printed on clear window cling? Would I need to use a halftone screen?

Well, once again, I didn't read the post well enough. I though you meant you were putting architectural letters on the brick above the doors LOL I didn't know arithecial was a word - what the hell kind of letters are those?

I feel like a loser. I just use 3m Gold and some cheap white one that I hand out for customers to use. Hard side for cut vinyl and other side wrapped with felt for printed stuff. I use the felt side wet for most of the printed stuff to avoid scratching. I guess I'll have to look into some of...

I would take the photo as you did, straight on. Measure distance between the columns and count the brick then count the same amount out on the column for the height? That should get you very, very close to actual size. I don't feel like there's going to be enough slant to make a difference...