Search results

If you have a really large mural a 10" or 12" metal mud knife with a 2" velcro loop works great. You need to use a 4" squeegee on the edges because the large squeegee will only press the vinyl on the high spots. Also make sure the velcro extends past the sharp corner...

At the shop, I used to work at we did a lot of short-run specialty decals for the aircraft industry in-house, and I would still outsource this all day every day unless there wasn't anything else to do. Jobs like these suck up way more time than you think and a wholesaler's price at these...

That's when you just print it without the text and overlay the text. Even if you have an accurate 2D template you're not going to be able to account for the extra dimension and the stretch during installation.

That too has changed, order anything prime and you'll see a 4 to 6 day delivery on most items.

In my opinion, the Geek wraps roller is too stiff for textured wrap installs, too wide without 2 heat guns, and it gets hot and hard to hold over time. I have used it for floors with a slight texture. You may get away with a painted block but not anything with serious texture. I find that on...

I looked on Shutterstock and there are several images of the golden gate bridge that will work a lot better. I found an image that was 41.3" x 13.8 at 300ppi. you can blow that up 4 times without losing any real detail by just scaling it to 165.2" x 55.2" at 75ppi. I have Photo Zoom as well but...

Hmm, I didn't have that problem but I am using 2021. If I open up a new file it will revert to the old settings unless you choose TOOLS/Save settings as default.

Double click on a ruler, and change the origin on the drop down. Seems to stay for me. Below was set for an 8.5" x 11" page size.

In signlab it was called a thick line and there was a setting for it. If a shape had an outline it would see the inside and outside of the line and cut both whether it was filled or not. This is different from the print cut outline I believe. The most frustrating thing is when you get...

If you're not careful you can chip the tip inserting the blade into the holder and that can cause a lot of problems. If you don't have better than 20 20 vision, get a magnifying glass to check the tip.

3M 3552 would be a good but expensive choice if you could get it...

The best scraper for this is a Triumph Scraper. Scrape the edges with a normal razor blade scraper. When you use the 6" Triumph, go top-down and pull slightly on the vinyl like you are trying to remove it as you scrape. 99 times out of 100 your blade will ride in the center of the adhesive with...

Don't get a cordless heat gun. They don't blow very hard, get hot enough and burn through batteries.

I can't remember the exact process but that is probably an etched zinc sign that's painted then the high spots are screened.

Weldy makes one. https://shop.weldy.com/collections/accessories/products/leather-holster

I have found that the quicker you set the grommet the better it cuts using quality self-piercing grommets. When you go slow it is hit and miss.

This may or may not help, but we had an old Multicam (404 I think) that had a variable resistor on the 5v power supply that we had to adjust constantly. The power supply was going bad and when the voltage fluctuated above or below a certain point it wouldn't work. The adjustment got us by until...

That seems cheap to me unless they provided the graphics file and you are next to the install location or they came to you. You should have a print-cut minimum and install minimum to protect you from leaking money on jobs like this. Second, why wouldn't you print-cut the whole thing? You're...

I found that down-cutting bits don't work well with plastics or plastic cored materials. Down-cutting bits tend to melt the plastics and adhesive from the prints leaving lots of edge cleanup. When we had prints laminated to PVC or ACM we would get good results by masking the graphic and using an...

Didn't think of that. Probably came from China.