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I've rebuilt them before but it's a big PITA. What kind of ink are you using? These maintenance stations should last a long time. I've seen people go 5+ years on one with just changing the cap top periodically.

The computer hardware shouldn't have anything to do with the printer hardware. You just want to make sure the RIP will work on the computer properly. I have a feeling the CET tech just read off the original machine specs and they were written around gen 9. A newer computer should work fine.

Sounds like maybe your circulation pump for the white is failing and/or the gear that connects the motor and the pump is stripped. It's a fairly common issue for that pump to leak on this model. I wouldn't be surprised if you have a leak as well. You'll want to take a look behind those covers...

If you just have an email of him approving it, you probably have a 50/50 chance of winning. If you have a physical signature, the odds lean in your favor. At the end of the day, the customer wins more often than not because the bank has no incentive to be fair to you. If the bank denies your...

The only difference between a Mutoh and Mimaki DX7 head is that Mimaki adds a memory chip to the head cover. The chip saves the head rank number. If you take the head cover off your current Mimaki head, put it on the Mutoh head, and then input the head rank number manually, it's exactly the same...

I've been in the parts business for about 20 years so can give some insight. As MarkSnelling says, if you want a risk free experience when replacing a head, you buy it from Roland/A Roland Dealer and have a Roland tech install it. It costs more but you're covered 100%. Many people go that route...

You're right for sure. They most certainly have the full resolution file that will print better but either they don't know how to save a print ready file at full resolution or their software only allows them to create PNGs. It's fairly common these days for people to be using a free online...

PNGs are for websites but not uncommon to get from customers who don't know any better. As long as the original design was made at 1:1 scale at 72dpi, it should look fine from normal viewing distances. Also, when in doubt, crop a smaller section from the image and print it. See how it will...

On Mutoh's it's called "Economy." Both lights in the cleaning indicator on the panel need to be on and that indicates it's set to economy.

Shoot me your info and I can add you to our list.

It could be the o-rings for sure. Might as well try them first. Also, check for any clogs in the lines below the cap tops. There's a Y connector that can get clogged sometimes or even the pump tubes. I usually just flush cleaning solution through the lines with a syringe to test and also clean...

The Rockies could use all the help they can get!

There's 2 ways to do it. The easiest way is to create a spot color in Corel named, CutContour, and make your cut line that color. Then save as a PDF and open it directly in Rasterlink. It will pick up the cut line automatically. Other than that, when you click the, Send To Rasterlink, button in...

I would suspect bad primary filters. A lot of people tend to wait until problems occur before replacing them instead of the routine replacement suggested by MImaki. They are supposed to be replaced once per year so if yours are older than that, I would definitely start there. And since you got...

Yes! Technically there is a "secret" service mode but it's the same as prior models. Mimaki hasn't gone down the "special tech login credentials" path yet.

So far so good. I have one customer who runs the heck out of it and he's loving it so far 1 year in. He put the XY slitter in the closet however. They make it an option now luckily.

We're a Mimaki dealer but even we don't get much info until we sell one. They don't give access to tech manuals etc. until we have one in the field. I'm wondering if maybe they're using the Epson I3200 heads like the CJV330. That model also uses the toilet paper wipers. User Manuals -...

DTF is the hot thing right now. Most major manufacturers are coming out with a turnkey solution. Mimaki has the TXF150 and TXF300 models and Roland has BY-20. Although they all require a separate 3rd party shaker and heater.

I agree with Smoke. Your cap top might be on the older side and not seal as well as it should. The machine not cleaning for a while just exposed it. The head should recover fairly easy though.

That's the operating temperature. As long as you let the room warm up to 60 or more before printing, it should be fine. The main reason for the temperature requirement is proper ink viscosity so it fires from the head properly.