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All of you are supposed to be grizzled sign people and not one of you recognizes a dye sub print?

Your lone employee is 'they'? Really? First you need to explain to yourself as well as 'them' that the both of you essentially are in the language business and both of you should give serious consideration to using it properly.

Probably somewhere in your production tackle's configuration there's a setting that either allows or disallows accepting these sorts of commands from it's input. Find this setting and set it to the state that accommodates what you're trying to do. Or maybe not.

Invariably, security protocols are put in place to protect the people putting them in place and make them feel warm and fuzzy. These protocols do little but inconvenience those forced to use them. My lack of interest in the security of various on line activities, such as this one, approaches...

Not your problem. Don't ever, as in ever, write copy. Including doing translations. Tell the client that this isn't a service you can provide, that you do signs, the client writes the copy. Creating copy is almost guaranteed to bite you in the a$$.

Two entirely different things. Solvents dry via evaporation, inks embedding into vinyl is a chemical reaction. Solvent evaporation happens in minutes, the other can take many days depending on just how much ink was put down. 'Outgassing' is the former, i've never heard an actual name for the...

How do you know it 'worked great'?

I have a 48" Mutoh and 99.9% of the time I print on 30" media. The reason being that I don't want to wrangle anything much larger than 30" by myself. It's not that I can't do it, rather it's that I don't want to do it. So buy a 54" or whatever and run smaller media in it. Then you're ready for...

You charge for media unrolled, not media used. Plus everything else.

If you're wrangling a solvent or eco-solvent printer you can pretty much print on most any flavor of vinyl. I've printied on all manner of vinyl, including etched and/or frosted, which are pretty much the same thing. Beware that you'll get sa color shift when printing non-white media since your...

That's just some rather mediocre sign painter's hand. It looks like he was going for Cooper Black but lack the skill to pull it off. Don't curse your friend by trying to imitate some else's really crappy hand. Just go for the Cooper Black.

Corel is easy. Convert everything to one transparent bitmap and invoke Edit Bitmap. In Photo Paint, if then image is not an object then Object->Create->From Background, then Object->Feather. When you get it how you want then Save. It will appear back in Corel Draw in whatever state it was in...

First, 'earth' = ground. Ground is ground, usually a green wire and yes, you must attach it to ground somewhere. If you don't you risk electrical shock from whatever device that isn't grounded. Then, you said there's only three [3] connections to this heat press labelled 'hot', 'null', and...

There are differences and then there are differences. The differences I noted were those that a hand lettered line would have, not due to multiple character versions. I took that into account when I was looking at this line. Back when most all signs were hand lettered we seldom, if ever...

The 'Merry Christmas' in gold on the window is hand lettered by someone very good at it. There are three 'R's, each one ever so slightly different. The serifs on the 'H' and 'T' are irregular. That being as far as I looked, further inspection was not necessary.

Place an object of known dimensions, like a rectangle of plywood or foam core, or whatever, the larger the better, standing up against the pole or wall. Take a picture of the sign, the wall or pole,and your reference rectangle. Try to shoot the picture as straight on as possible as well as from...

If you're touting your design or layout skills, unless you specifically signed over the rights to that design to some entity, you own it. If you're pushing your fabrication and/or installation skills, if it's out in public then it's public, as previously noted. So unless it's an inside job that...

Infinitely better is either a burr removal tool, available at most hardware stores, or a brass bar run over the rough edge with down pressure at about 30 degrees. If done properly the bar will reform the edge to something just like the factory edge but is slower than the burr removal tool. Leave...

One does not convert bitmaps to vectors. These, bitmap and vector, are not interchangeable formats. When a vector image is converted to a bitmap it's a one way street. The original vector image can never, as in ever, be recreated from a bitmap. The best you can do is try to identify edges in the...

In Flexi use the transparency tool to remove the, I assume, gray surrounding the green outline. Then, depending on just what you mean by 'cut out', you can print and contour cut the non-transparent part. If you mean 'cut out' and have a non-rectangular bitmap, that's another subject entirely...