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Same. I’ve had my LEC300A since 2017 and I’ve done everything myself outside of the first couple tech visits. Things a junker, but it’s my junker. I’ll buy it’s big brother when it croaks.

Who’s your dealer? If this left regular mode, it has to have been moved to service mode, right? It has to be able to be turned off. The hard line from cleanings is real, happens on my LEC300A, so that’s absolutely unacceptable. Whoever sold and installed that printer should be called and...

Which goes away once you cycle a functional chip back into the printer. Call your dealer, if you’ve never putt third party in, this shouldn’t happen. This is a current generation printer, demand the love.

This sounds like a vote for zero accountability more than you maybe thought it did. California requires too much. Everyone else requires too little. There needs to be a middle ground, which today we really don’t have. The industrial revolution and our lovely (lack of) laws in relation to...

No terms. No deposits. 100% payment, cash or card, at job approval. I don’t have time to work and play mobster.

I only make one customizable product with 3 raw skus, so it’s literally just a print out of their paid detailed invoice with their graphic attached - cause a job isn’t a job until the money sings.

Have you called your dealer? That’s probably the right place to start.

May I ask the point of risking time and money sending out the cheapest solvent heads on the market for cleaning? At $500 a pop on digi, it’s hard for me to personally understand the justification. The membranes in DX4’s are so sensitive, when it’s gone, it’s gone. Did this service offer a...

If you do your own maintenance and parts repairs, dig up a Roland LEC-540 or LEJ-640. The old ones. The new ones play the locked arrive mode TruVis games. I have an LEC300A and it’s an absolute tank. I also have a UCJV300-160, but the super matte ink of the Mimaki and larger ink droplet of the...

The carrier film is so thin, and the adhesive is so bitey, that id be afraid to apply it to a 8.5x32.5 surface, even with wet apply. The surface area and curvature of a skateboard makes it such a mistake risk. As far as I’m aware, you have to be setup with clear and white for these, so you’re...

The A/B sheet model would work fine for top of board prints, but the structure of how it’s all made wouldn’t be a my choice for a skateboard. Adhesives fail - bonds don’t. It would work, but it wouldn’t be a comparable. And not to mention the cost to produce, woof.

Love to hear it!

Yep. If it’s not paint/ink, it just doesn’t feel or perform correctly. It’s gotta smear or flake, not tear or buckle.

haha love it! Excited to see what you've got coming.

Sweet! My name is Preston. No need for confidence!

That's what I love to hear! I don't know if you're using a rubber laminator or not to marry these, but something tells me a heat assist laminator would get you an even better visual output.

The profile for Drytac Retac75 has really good reds. Profiles mean less in UV than they do for Latex or Solvent, since the ink sits on the surface cured, the media profiles are more of a “we believe this works best” if nothing else. Also, set your color management to Adobe1998 RGB &...

I'm not aware of any individual color options in UV yet, but it's a CMYKlclm UV curable ink, in regards to anti slip tape, when it leaves the print head, it falls into the grains and groves of the surface, then the light hard cures it to the surface. Nothing is done after this. It's cut and...

That's because you're using a non surface curing ink technology. I've attached a photo of what we can achieve on UltraGrip via direct to surface, 6 color UV.

We do mostly custom one-off work, so the designs submitted are a little bit of everything.