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the pantone match in the RIP uses the RIPs version of the pantone color not your design programs .. so when you name a pms color in your design file.. the RIP recognizes it and substitutes its closet match and by your description uses absolute as the rendering intent (i don't know i have never...

laminating is like anything else as far as you have a learning curve and how your equipment reacts... same as laying down vinyl.. at first i got bubbles and wrinkles everywhere, i learned what worked for me and what doesn't. my first wrap (or second, third...tenth) was not great either i had...

MOSH!!!! not you .. you're the guy that came on here talking about how to lowball and get all the jobs for a 120 miles radius! ...don't get me wrong i love your post, but you couldn't change that much could you? now you would charge almost $15 a sq ft! and 15 of them! i would think...

these are pretty easy machines to make work.... it probably just needs cleaning cycle to get the ink flowing , possible nozzles not firing.. test print pattern? most times ink is clogged or starved and a cleaning or 2 should get it back.

that's funny.. i almost cried laughing

truthfully i never understood how you run more than a short piece without Kraft paper... a lot say no to the kraft paper though . ..so? but without the paper you run the danger of things sticking together or sticking to the rollers..etc. are you thinking if the accuracy was perfect the lam...

your price and mine will be different .... charge what you need to make a profit. there are those that would sell these for $3 a sq ft and some would get $10. some shops are set up for volume and could make money at a really low price, but they could do all of these in a very short time...

i wouldn't feel confident... probably not with any laminator though. i don't like not being there with the printer take up reel going either. but i have run 25 yds plus while standing with it ... doesn't take long. i use the kraft paper that is larger than the lam so nothing sticks...

it is possible that you got a lemon...

i use clearshield on banners ( not all though) but for one thats gonna be rolled and rerolled like for a rock band it makes it really durable. we use a foam roller and it flows out nice.

what kind of inconsistent results? bubbles and wrinkles? skew?

i have one and use it almost daily... its not the best i know, but it doesn't suck. when it doesn't work.. it is usually my fault.

sign maniac says it best... and it's not easy, i am still working at it. you know mcdonalds, outback, and even fancier restaurants all sell hamburgers ... mcdonalds is the cheapest but people don't always go there.. why? the presentation, atmosphere , service at the nicer places...

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is there ink on the grit roller? i had that happen before every time the roller turned it would leave a mark. much smaller than what you have but might be the same issue?

when i did it the first time .... it took so long the ink lines lost all the ink took me forever to figure it out and get all the nozzles firing... but the second time was real smooth and all work perfectly afterwards i also changed all the dampers both times ... i changed them one at a...

no.. here is a quote from the OP's first post it has been a great debate... i did enjoy it. you've got me thinking. maybe you could use the printer profile but that is a strange idea to me. and what if you use different profiles for different medias (i'm talking about output profiles...

then why not just use you printer profile as the source? It's no accident the RGB Yellow to SWOP Yellow had cyan in it. That's what you complained about originally. do you know the difference between input and output profiles? RGB yellow to swop? what are you talking about? RGB yellow gets...

both... i was pointing out that most programs and thing s assume sRGB by default so using that space (even though it is more limited than adobeRGB 19980 is more idiot proof in flexi i use my printers profile for soft proof in adobe i use generic swopv2 flexi has settings on how to render...

relative colormetric would be best on most sign stuff... but on all vector i use no color correction in flexi... and photos look best most of the time perceptual. but when i have a sign designed in photoshop (or any raster that is more graphic than photo) i generally RIP it with relative...