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its hard for my setup to find the registration marks ... i had to set it up in flexi with a box around it that left a little room between the box and the design ,box with no fill but a stroke , then i knew the exact size of the box. so i stuck white vinyl down on the silver far enough in that...

thanks Dan.. i'll call stouse tomorrow and check to see if they will do just one.

he only needs one roll 1" x 150ft... will stouse do something like this?

forgot pic forgot the pic :omg: and yes 1"

this is 1" x 150 ft print and laminated vinyl... does anyone know where i could get something like this?

anyone know this font

I think this is correct..... vector art mega collection 1

if they started with a lower res file (like something download from the net) and just upsampled up to 300dpi it is likely it will never look good. genuine fractals and other programs cannot invent data that isn't there. this sounds like the case here... take a 2"x2" 72 dpi pic and blow up...

HEY don't drag me into this....

does it have to be a rectangle? a cut to shape sign would be nicer looking

combining rasters and vectors ino a file can cause issues in the rip because of the rendering intents are different by default in the rip. rasters are generaly render perceptual and vectors set is no color correction or relative colormetric. i set both rasters and vectors to relative...

thats the method i used but it is still a little off... i might try the transfer tape though

yes same technique on both and same materials... i used the big squeegee

i did these prints on cast 3m with cast lam... when i mount them they stretch about a 1/4" and throw off the registration. does anybody have anytips or tricks on how to keep the registration perfect? i did the cartoon drawings of the dog and background myself.... ingore the wrinkles the sign...

depends on what software you are using... in photoshop Mr. Retro Distress filters do a good job on things like that. you could use photoshops blending modes to overlay parchment onto different color back grounds.

180c should always be applied dry. and for stripes i wouldn't laminate ,unless the lam would be what made it flat or matte. i might use transfer tape though.

don't be so defensive the folks on this site can get harsh sometimes but they are right most of the time... be open to critics and learn ... we can all get better. so take the comments and learn.. really look at what your are doing and keep learning.

a lot of these people pricing the smaller jobs so low aren't figuring in all the cost and as a result aren't making much money... i wouldn't compete with them if that is the case. if you can do the math and still make a profit then thats OK . i don't get a lot of the smaller coro and such...

study some designs and critiques on this forum and you will learn alot... you definately have some skills and knowledge of the software (just to get the effects) just study and learn what makes a good and effective design. Rick (who commented "oh my!") is excellent .. you should search...

the cast has extension of 4 years... but on some calendered that i wanted to feel better about durability i have used the 215 it has 3 year extension factor. 210 only 2 years. all depends on the conditions (sun exposure...)