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This film is applied to the hood of a school bus that came in last week for minor fixes.... This vinyl was put on dry 4 years ago. OK I know it is on a black surface that faces upward, but a cast film should last longer.

OK look at the "T" this is not a well designed font and the other pic shows the overlap causing the problem.

This is what I call a cheap font!! I asked the designer to look at it as a font in wire frame and he tells me it actually looks that way...who designs a font like that? In fact the "T" is smaller than the rest of the copy....Must be done offshore and cheap... I spend 30 minutes fixing all the...

The designer is telling me this is a font. I have seen where a conversion breaks a font into pieces but not like this!! When I print the "P" that little overlap causes the background colour to show through. Now normally I would do a quick weld and get on with it, but this graphic won't work...

I am a Signlab user since it was DOS as well... I have Flexi and Gerber Omega as well. If I were to start all over again I would definitely learn Illy and Signlab so that I had the best of what each offers me. So many files we get are designed in Illustrator and Signlab can't handle...

I pay $50 for a 1/2 litre bottle of Bestjet...that is a pretty large savings and since switching over I have never needed to run print adjustments. I can't tell for sure but I do think that this particular brand of ink is a little more gummy and needs slightly more cleaning than OEM ink.

Thanks guys, I will use your advice and do some rigorous cleaning in there.

I have never done a firmware upgrade and basically run the printer on a comp that can't access the internet. . Playing it safe.

Mine is purely mechanical and I suspect because the black ink had drained out, somehow it has made a mess inside that area that I cant seem to find. This morning I fired it up and the wiper moved out fine...Maybe it was the gunk on the underside of the rail that is not visible. I will say...

My jv3 130spII although getting on in age (8 years) still prints good and I have kept up the maintenance quite well, or so my technician tells me. I had an issue a few weeks back with my black ink, and somehow 2 bottles were drained completely dry and I called him in to syphon the lines and get...

I had to try and get a bright orange for a fleet of vehicles and the best I could do was to do a double hit with a softer orange. The final orange was pretty brilliant...so on top of that I also had to find a way to match a blue as well running a double hit. Due to having to print quite a bit...

Maxmedia in Markham, ON has them...and no flushing of lines and I honestly think my machine prints better than it did with OEM. never seem to run print adjustments anymore

Yes I have tried this method...works much better than having to deal with agent orange in my lungs...

Oh I see...I understand... I use Jetbest which have 500ml bottles that you suspend upside down on top of refillable cartridges that bestjet supplies. Same basic pricing for ink, but all I do is pop a new bottle onto the cartridge and never run out of ink.

OEM ink for $55.00? 440 ml that sounds way to cheap to begin with

I think I might invest in a set of those teeth...:smile:

OK guys...I have what might be the most tedious frost job and I will need to cut quite a bit of it, and don't want to sit for endless hours fighting the weeding process...basically it is a pattern of something like 1" v's one upright the next upside down continuously and row after row of...

Just wondering if there is a tool that can do that...I have a round corner machine, but seriously don't think it can deal with thin steel...or can it?

I figure if a decal can sit on the hood of a car and resist the heat of the sun than that would be considered heat resistant? If I laminate the decal would that be chemical resistant?