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Using LEDs in wood shouldn't be an issue. LEDs are very safe and produce very little heat. I see a few obstacles. 1. Cutting the letters right the first time. 13" letters you're going to want a bit of depth so it gives a nice even glow vs more of a pinpoint "hard" light. It takes a little...

I'd recommend going on Slickdeals.net and putting up an alert for computers. It will email/text you whenever a deal comes up that meets your parameters. Evaluate the deal and buy based on budget & specs. You don't need to build your own PC to get a good system. You can get a good quality...

It's annoying, but it's part of the business. As I've stated on other similar subjects, I really don't think about it that much. I charge them a small fee and send the artwork to get vectorized. With a business card, the charge would likely be around $30-45. If they don't want to pay $30-45...

One of the more simple ways of handling this situation is to send them a bill. I'd send them two separate bills. One for the printed artwork. The other a release for using your artwork by another vendor. Then you give them 90+ days to pay you. If they don't, you can either take them to...

http://precisionboard.com/1uncategorized/our-cnc-machine-finally-arrived/ http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?21899-2k-urethane-paint-on-signfoam-4 Those are two of the most common methods of mounting HDU

HDU/Sign Foam is decorative only. It's non structural. Most believe the best way to hang HDU signs is an internal steel/aluminum structure. If you do a little searching, you'll see all sorts of different examples. As for gluing the two panels of HDU, Gorilla Glue works well otherwise...

I'm looking for a source for laser cutting acrylic and direct printing. It's a decent sized order of 200-250 pcs. It will either be cut out of .5" or .75" clear acrylic. Anyone have a good source to work with?

Signs should try their best to cover the who, what, where, when and why. Obviously all of these won't be applicable in every circumstance but if you're a business and have a sign saying "Blank Industries" and absolutely nothing else, even if it looks fantastic, I'd consider it a failure because...

That's a $15 trace from my guy. I also was a bit bored this afternoon and threw it into Inkscape and found it very possible to do a 90% job in about 20ish minutes. My recommendation is to find a cheap vector guy. I've yet to have a customer complain about the $20 cleanup charge when I explain...

1mm is ridiculously thin. Are you sure you want that thin of material? Also, 1mm is thin enough to easily cut it with an razor. Any reason you're opposed to that?

What thickness and type of plastic are you even looking for? I'd say that's the most important part of the discussion.

I have a Gravograph LS100 and a ULS 6.60. The Gravograph machine is the superior machine. The ULS has the superior driver/software. Just about all name brand lasers run off a print driver so you can literally run the laser off MS Word if you wanted to. You can absolutely run any laser from...

Sometimes with dimensional signs, they will look flat from a distance. If you ever look at how dimensional signs are photographed, they are almost always taken with very little background and close to the sign. Why? Because stand 50 feet back and you might not see all the detail and in fact...

I have to admit, I'm also seeing a lack of dimension. The good thing is if you have some scrap left over, you could still do something about it. Take the "BMG" and apply some dimensional letters. It will give the sign some "pop" to it. If you don't happen to have scrap, HomeDepot sells...

Not the right machine for you unless you're doing A LOT of ADA signs. Think hundreds a week. For small runs, an engraving machine is hard to beat.

There are a few ways to make them. The two I know of are using an engraver/router or photopolymer. Youtube/Google search will show many videos on how they're made.

No reason why it shouldn't. Just understand that 3mm PVC is relatively thin so as said below, you may cut through it. The benefit of 3mm PVC is it's low cost and the fact you can stack it on top of each other without much thought or effort.

Build the frame out of lumber. Throw a sheet of 5x10 MDF on top. Secure it with glue and screws. Throw a piece of 3mm PVC on top secured with glue/spray adhesive. When the PVC gets too screwed up, throw another sheet over it. All of these materials should be pretty easy to get from any...

I don't do vinyl, but this is pretty cut and dry stuff. Take a tape measure and measure out how big of a space you want to work with. Then go into your design software and make the design fit the available space. I'd be WAY more concerned with putting the vinyl on straight. Can't tell you...

http://www.frameusa.com/metal-frames I use them for reasonably priced wood frames. Never metal, but I'm sure they'd work just fine.