Search results

That's awesome. Out of curiosity, how long does it take you to produce one of the seamless textures from photos?

The only times we worry about masking the labels is if they're A) not laminated or B) complex contour cuts. For a normal, laminated label (round, square, oval. etc.) I wouldn't worry about the masking.

I'd be getting myself a new lawyer. If he/she is not up to the task, I'll take my money elsewhere.

Unless previously stated by the customer, we would always quote the removal of existing material as a separate line item. This gives the customer the option of saving some money (and us the headache) by digging it out themselves. Sign price (including design) 2 man install at $XX per hour (min...

What size are the pieces inside the knockout? I know from my own experience that if the small pieces like the inside of an "e" are too small, they're nearly impossible to get to stick to app tape. One trick you can use is go slow over the trouble areas and use a knife or weeding tool to push...

I was taught, and have been using, 60/40/40/100 to produce a rich RGB-type black. You can easily google this (e.g. "rich black cmyk") and quickly get overwhelmed by the variety of responses. Big thing is to test it out on your machine and material and check it in a variety of light sources...

If she doesn't have money for a good lawyer, and they do, she could be in trouble if it comes to an actual lawsuit. I would hope any good judge would acknowledge that this is not an infringement, but you never know how those will actually turn out. Definitely advise her to get some good legal...

Wow! It's been a while since I've looked at pricing, but now I see we're getting ripped on prices compared to other wholesale distributors. When I first got into the sign industry in 2010, Fellers was our go-to place for most of our vinyl. They were the most competitive, so long as you talked...

So, if you're not using Fellers, who do you use?

When you just do the warp, it leaves it as a mathematical calculation of the original. Like the others said, you need to do Object > Expand. This locks the letters into their warped state. NOTE: you may want to save these as a separate production file. Once you expand the object, you can no...

...like a fungus? :-P

I've never had success doing a butt joint without overlap.

I like this method because it reduces the number of files on the computer. My main concern would be that someone gets in a rush, outlines the editable layer, then saves & closes it. Obviously attention to detail is necessary. Just like you can forget to save the production file FIRST, and save...

I don't know, I'm pretty enchanted with the hatch chili peppers. And they have Carlsbad Caverns.

Welcome to the group.

This would probably take me 2-3 full days. But I've never done a color change before - just full print - so I'm adding time in for the new experience. Looks like you did a good job. I don't personally like the mint color (no professional criticism there), but it's effective with the roses...

I was originally taught to save production files as all outlines, no fonts left. Through my own headaches, I learned to save 2 files - [filename]_EDIT and then [filename]_PRINT. It's saved me tons of time over the years once I figured that one out.

I like that policy. It protects you from spending hours on nothing, but also gives them a value-added "I'm not trying to cheat you" offer. You don't lose any money, neither do they...unless they waste your time.