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Yeah Roland techs who work for a dealer will probably reject you but independent techs love to work on them for the same reason Zoogee World said, they're relatively easy to work on. If you let us know the issue we can get the hard part out of the way; diagnosing what's actually wrong. Then...

It's so weird because I've heard this from other people but in my experience, about 15 years fixing these machines, it's been fine. Do you ever clean them? What do you use?

The head just needs to be docked but the index head (the part that grabs the head or cutter when needed) should be on the cutter side.

It means the encoder isn't being read properly. If it's intermittent, you probably just have some ink splatter or grease from the rail on the encoder itself. You can clean it with a lint free cloth and alcohol.

You need to check all of the air tube connections to make sure they are tight. You probably just have an air leak. It's possible that the adjustment valve is just malfunctioning as well.

The head lock screws into the Y rail just to the left of the head. You'll see two holes for the screws. It's the same as the cutter side. I'll post some pics. Cutter Side Print Head Side

Slap a piece of vinyl or opaque tape over the sensor hole. That will guarantee it doesn't trip. Just know that if the roll DOES come to an end, it could cause a mess on the platen.

Just like printable vinyl, laminate comes in the calendered and cast varieties. Calendered is generally good for 3-4 years. Cast is the high end stuff that lasts 7-9 years. What you're using right now is a short roll of cast laminate used for car wraps which is why it's so expensive. If you buy...

It's probably just a warning about the missing cart or even the heater getting to the proper temp. If it didn't stop the print, it's usually not anything too important.

Usually that's going to be a power supply of main board going bad. I'd test the power supply with a voltmeter to make sure it's outputting the proper power. If it is, it's probably a bad main board. Before you swap out the board, I would unplug everything, air dust all the terminals and then...

The machine has to be powered on and the USB plugged in. Then, when you add the cutter to Flexi and it asks for a port, USB_PRINTER_0 should show up in the list.

You need a merchant membership to sell on sigsn101.

Yeah unfortunately those boards fail so infrequently, most of us drop ship from Mimaki rather than keep it on the shelf.

If Mimaki doesn't have them in stock, it's going to be a miracle someone has one on the shelf. I'd try PDS Equipment. If they don't have it, no one does other than maybe used.

That would probably be the next step. The HDC board does many things but one of them is amplifying the head signal. If that circuit is malfunctioning it could affect the way the nozzles fire for a single channel. Feel free to contact us for the board. We don't stock it but can drop ship.

We do. Here's a link to the Mutoh maintenance parts section.

In that case, headstrike is probably right. Might be a bad PCB or environment issue. Doing the cable swap should tell you more about where the issue is. If the white stops spraying and the new color starts to spray, that tells you it's not an ink issue. If the white continues to spray, that...

It's sounding more and more like a head unfortunately.

Is this job setup to print then cut on it's own or did you print, and then manually tell it to cut? Judging by the video, it seems like the cut job was sent manually and the pointer just started looking for the crop at the origin. In that case you need to set the origin at the first crop mark...

FIneCut hasn't been updated for the latest version of illustrator yet unfortunately.