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the air is suspect. you should feel resistance when pulling with a syringe at the back. the syringe should only come down about 1/2". unless you had a bad seal at the syringe or the syringe is bad.....you might have a cracked manifold, to that side of the head. it seems unlikely that the cap...

if what wrapperX recommended doesn't work (which i'm almost 100% sure it will). your left with a data swap to see if that side of the print head is getting data.

make sure also that you have good contact at the cap/head interface and also look for a dried clump of ink inside that heads pump lines (clogs can also occur directly beneath the cap out of sight). the easiest thing is to start with is just use the syringe below the lc lm cap and look for...

man i don't know what that hard clean does. i just know that i've heard it's the equivilant of many many head cleanings. ages the head several months in just minutes (that's what i've heard) so don't quote "me" on that.

do you see latent lm lc in the cap, also, take off the the back panel to the pumps. there's a good chance you have vapor lock in the head and no amount of ink fills will over come that. if so, very gently pull a vacuum at the cap/pump union to that head or at the end of the waste line.

photo... or actually print, scan the print. will be much clearer. will be easier to diagnose if the signs101ers can get a focused look at the issue.

okay, you are already kinda messing up your machine. first off. "hard clean" is a last resort. i've done one hard clean in about 10 years. do some searches on "head soak" in this forum. was the machine "custody washed" when picking it up? if not, most likely you've got a dried out...

what's taking so long to heat up? ...the platen? if so i'd lay a silicone heating pad (used for veneer and other industrial heating stuff). can get to 300F! http://www.briskheat.com/p-351-srx-hazardous-area-rated-silicone-rubber-heating-blankets.aspx

has anyone seen these inks at trade shows. triangle evidently has gotten intot he bio ink business. only the pdf reads strangely. so is it a full conversion, or plug and play? http://www.triangledigitalinx.biz/sell_sheet/BVJ_23.pdf Bio inks developed from corn derived renewable...

@MachServTech good point... i can clean my machine in about one minute... but i would be definitely put off if i had to do that to five machines. as far as the sepiax ink... kept hearing more and more bad news about heat distribution etc. still would like to try it out but i've got...

my jv3 is pretty much zero trouble now that i know how to use it. clean the edges of the caps, clean the wiper rails and wiper every day. once every two weeks clean around the bottom of the heads and pour cleaning solution down the caps to flush the pumps. maybe that's "too" much maintenance...

depends on the origin of the bubbles. if the bubbles are coming all the way down the ink lines from the carts, then the leak is further back at the cart. i'd start by trying out a different yellow cart. see if the issue persists. if you don't have another yellow cart, it might be worth...

vapor lock. pull a very very gentle vacuum from beneath the cap (either the drain line or separate the union going to the pump.)

definitely load your cutter with leds. i've got my mimaki's hull fully lit up. seems like it should be standard on all printing equipment.

the method for cleaning a print head socket that i've heard of is: get some stiff paper (card stock). cut the paper the width of your data ribbons. fold the paper so that it can firmly be inserted into the socket without getting stuck. put a small amount of cleaning solution on the end of...

it's common. happened to me on my jv3. if you every get a constant contact of ink between the bottom of the head and the top of the cap whether liquid or mechanical, the ink will begin to syphon through the machine. there is constant light positve pressure inside your ink lines. the ink is...

it's possible during a head change or any damper changes to drip ink on a cable which will unfortunately down the cable right into the head. inspect the bottom of the cable. also, look into the head port with a light. there is a way to clean out the head port if it's got ink in it. takes a...

yeah... looks like quartersawn curly maple. sometimes called fiddleback.

that definitely looks electronic. ink starvation just can't turn on and off that quiclkly. i will note that there was a thread about (i think it was your printer model) that had a line that was pinching and breaking seal at the far left side of the gantry.... but, don't think that applies. is...

the oem vs. 3rd party ink can go both ways. regardless of paranoia about inks. if you very very seldomly use the machine (as in my case). the printer can toss a ton of ink doing cleaning cycles all week. you'll think..."i should do a custody wash". but that's not pratical. you know you'll...