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Exploring the VK300D, curious how long you've had it, if you're happy with the decision and what type of printing you do with it? Getting out of two FB700s and looking towards these machines. Thanks.

Awesome, here's to better sleep at night!!!

Seems to be silvering. You can see the vertical roller lines where the pressure is greater. We have a cold roll laminator that doesn't have the pressure that our Seals do. It's great for mounting graphics and such, but our laminating goes to the Seals that can be cranked down and in some cases...

"All the drive around and look at signs comments." I have a problems with this... Signs interest me, that's why I do it. I'm in a store, I'm on vacation... it doesn't matter I'm looking at signage; how it is made and what materials are used or what/how the hardware holding it was fabricated. It...

I really don't understand why people use 1st surface unless the design calls for it. If you're using acrylic, sub-surface makes the product look so much higher end, whether printed or cut, so long as your vinyl is the same color on the adhesive side as the face. Unless you're using a color or...

I like a straight razor blade on glass. The only thing worse than removing old perf is removing old reflective. Otherwise, I would hope you would bring the vehicle indoors to acclimate. Putting on or taking off vinyl in sub-zero is not usually advised. I'm in Michigan and my Jeep said -18 on the...

I personally don't buy 100% into the VHB applications because they have not always stood the test for me. I do use them a lot, but for me I would shy away from them on this applications. As for acrylic to aluminum, you could try a signlok 406 or something equivalent, but I would do a shear test...

otherwise, if your sold on a French cleat make it out of acrylic and use: https://www.johnsonplastics.com/tapes-fastening-systems/liquid-adhesives/weld-on-scigrip-4-liquid-solvent-for-bonding-acrylics-quart

One of these options may work for you... https://www.wensco.com/CatSearch/2334/clear-plastic-pad Weld on and use studs https://www.johnsonplastics.com/stand-offs-mounting-fixtures/mounting-fixtures/rowmark-fisso-ghost-silver-stand-off-4-pkg Weld on and use multiples (not just corners)

If close is okay... I would just take a photo as straight on as possible, then find an item at the same depth of field to measure for a point of reference (the larger the item the better). If there isn't an item, make one (have someone stand there...) Then put your photo into a design software...

I would suggest an alternate route. Even using the Bar and Shield shape is a problem. Harley is really protective of it's brand and anything that resembles it. Chances are nothing would ever come from it, but that's a decision you have to make for yourself. Remember the Disney story of the...

Not implying the "Jackhammer" that was used didn't cause the issue, but for fun-sies, what tools do you use that DON'T come from china?

I'm not entirely familiar with the 260, but the 560 has a plasticizer roller that supposedly eliminates issues and I must say when we do use it, it seems to work. We burn through a ton of GF vinyls of all types (almost everything they have) and haven't had issues, but I'm not leaving this stuff...

I just ran this exact vinyl on my 560 yesterday with no issues. Maybe plasticizers? How old is the material? General says it only has a 6 month shelf life. Maybe start with a generic matte vinyl profile that you know works already, then try a section that's wiped down with a isopropyl 90+.

ChrisN has it... You have to print to the digitally printable product that's been corona treated, otherwise cutting/routing will chip/flake and as you state the laminate will peel the whole print off like a skin. Whatever brand you use likely has a digital version.

I think he's talking about a 50% mark-up not a 50% increase. A 50% mark-up is doubling by dividing your cost by .5 or 50% an 80% mark-up would be dividing by costs by .2. I will not sell anything lower than a 30% mark-up NOT 30% increase.

We use "Rapid Remover" and it doesn't affect the sheen. Maybe a lacquer thinner on the gloss area, but use sparingly to test a small area. Otherwise, I know the graffiti remover usually mattes up gloss signs.

Not sure the nature of work you are absorbing or going after, but you may consider a minimum order as well. Depending on job types we have $100 minimum orders for certain equipment.

It's a slap to the merchants and hurts the host's pocketbook, but it's basic economics here. So long as the merchants keep buying, no one is going to make a change. Stop buying as Wild West did and things may change. Ikarasu said it... $1500 is nothing for a lifetime. "Pay the man his money."...

Also... taking old signs down doesn't mean the same sqft new sign can go up. If you're grandfathered in, you likely have less square foot allowance now. You can "Refurbish", but may not be able to build new/change. I can guarantee it hasn't changed in favor of more over the 10 years. The fun...